Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

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  • #23087
    MalcC
    Participant

    I’m troubleshooting an H130E washing machine for a friend and seeking help and ideas.

    The machine does not proceed with any cycle selected from the panel. The machine goes into a self start mode without the user pressing the Start/Pause button but does not really start a cycle and seems stalled. There is initially a momentary attempt to take in water for a fraction of a second, and the drum rotates forward and backwards a couple of times, then nothing. There is no display on the countdown timer display panel.

    The basics have been checked:

    * No blockage in the pump or drain pipes.
    * Water supply to feed pipes okay.
    * Pump working, checking separately for operation.
    * Motor turns drum, so belt and brushes okay.

    I’m suspecting a controller / button panel fault. Maybe, connector issues. But would like to hear if anyone else had this one, and solved it.

    Thanks in advance.

    Malc C

    #196967
    Penguin45
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    I’d check the water level control switch for function. If that’s OK, probably some sort of computer problem, although I’m not prepared to bet my shirt on that………..

    Regards,
    Penguin45.

    #196968
    Martin
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    MalcC wrote:I’m suspecting a controller / button panel fault.

    Usually a triac failure on the main circuit board burnt out? They are numbered TR1, TR2 TR3 etc. If you tell us which one has blown we more than likely will know which component caused it! 😉

    #196969
    MalcC
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    Hi Martin/Penguin45,

    Thanks for the tips.

    I have checked the Triacs on the power controller board.

    The TR1 (BTB12 12amp Triac) is blown. TR2 thru TR7 low power Triacs are OK.

    Can you shed more light on the likely root cause of TR1 blowing.

    I didn’t check the water level switch yet. The one with the plastic air tube on it I’m guessing.

    Thanks,

    Malc C

    #196970
    MalcC
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    Martin wrote:Usually a triac failure on the main circuit board burnt out? They are numbered TR1, TR2 TR3 etc. If you tell us which one has blown we more than likely will know which component caused it!

    TR1 (BTB12 12amp Triac) is blown. TR2 to TR7 Triacs are OK.

    Can you shed more light on the likely root cause of TR1 blowing 😕

    Malc C

    #196971
    Martin
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    MalcC wrote:Can you shed more light on the likely root cause of TR1 blowing 😕

    Yes!

    The motor AND your module need replacing 😥

    The motor is the culprit!

    #196972
    MalcC
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    Martin wrote: The motor is the culprit!

    Thanks for the pointer.

    I’m a bit confused 😕 the motor does rotate backwards and forwards (about 1 second each way) but the cycle (any cycle) does not proceed. Does this suggest the motor is okay?

    I desoldered TR1 to check it with a Peak semiconductor analyser and found it faulty. I can get the component from RS Components for about £2 and fix this fault. But I wonder will it blow again. Any thoughts?

    Replacing the motor and the module may be uneconomic 🙁

    #196973
    Martin
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    MalcC wrote:. But I wonder will it blow again. Any thoughts?

    Well all I know is that TR1 controls the Motor so if that’s blown then clearly the motor must either have a high insulation reading or more likely drawing far too much current?

    If you have the ability to replace the TR1 then fair play to you. But you’d best look carefully at that motor before switching on? 😉

    #196974
    MalcC
    Participant

    Re: Hoover H130E Washer – Cycle Non-Operation

    Replacing the TR1 Power Triac on the Power Module cleared the problem and all is working fine.

    I can only assume that current surges (maybe mains surges) and general overheating of the device eventually caused it to fail. The bit of bent aluminium heatsink on the module seems underrated to me.

    The Triac is available from RS Components (rswww.com) Stock No. 2512915 and is Part No. BTB12-600BW and cost about £7 with postage. DON’T TRY AND REPLACE THIS UNLESS YOU ARE QUALIFIED IN ELECTRONICS REPAIR.

    Thanks to Martin and Pengiun45 for steering me to the cause of the problem. 😉

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