Hoover Nextra HNF6167 Won’t Spin

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  • #64659
    markocosic
    Participant

    Hello,

    Hoover Nextra (mega load 7.5 kg AAA1600 auto load control optima wash system) HNF6167

    It won’t spin. Washes, with the drum turning back and forth and slowly no problem, pumps out, won’t spin. Appears to fill to the appropriate level.

    I’ve had the pump out and the air chamber/line to the pressure switch/drain hose out. Muck has been cleaned out of all of these and I cut 1/2″ off the ends of the pressure hose just to make sure that its definitely sealing. This seems ok. Pump and muck trap are clear and this works fine.

    Use a wash cycle, and it’ll wash, rinse, 2nd rinse, drain out but not spin. Put it on spin and it’ll sit there with the pump running but nothing turning. It does give a small clockwise kick each time you start a spin cycle, else nothing.

    Doesn’t matter what the spin speed setting is.

    Doesn’t matter what the temp setting is.

    Doesn’t matter if the durm is empty, half full, or completely full.

    Bought the pdf, but the machine doesn’t appear to be flashing any fault codes – when/how do you get these to flash?

    Any advice appreciated. Its an old machine but I like the size, and mechanically its fine!

    Also – is there a textbook way to defeat the door interlock? I don’t have kids and am capable of not scalding myself and personally find the things infuriating…

    Cheers,


    Marko

    #357689
    kwatt
    Keymaster

    Re: Hoover Nextra HNF6167 Won’t Spin

    Have you looked at the motor brushes, they should be these ones:

    http://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/Washing+ … ushes.html

    Door locks generally cannot be by-passed these days and, in any event, it’s highly inadvisable to do so or attempt to do so.

    Fault codes will only show when the machine “realises” that there’s a problem.

    HTH

    K.

    #357690
    markocosic
    Participant

    Re: Hoover Nextra HNF6167 Won’t Spin

    ‘Interesting’ one this…

    Brushes – fine; tacho coil – 184 ohms.

    All looks fine at the motor end, so went back to the pressure switch and had that to pieces. 3 wires. Blue = neutral. Red goes to the main PCB. Yellow goes to the main PCB and the motor. 4 pins on the pressure sensor, one of which is not connected. The yellow wire was connected to this not connected pin.

    So full = blue + red wires connected, but empty = nothing connected as it stood.

    So I called the mother, from whom I inherited the machine. It had a new drum casing fitted under warranty, but it was such a lousy machine by the time the casing was fitted she’d stuck it in the garage and bought herself another. She’d been using it to wash duvets etc only (7.5kg load) running off a hosepipe into a drain, and hadn’t ever seen it spin since it was fixed, come to mention it. So I’m guessing drum casing replacement also played games with the wiring.

    Don’t suppose somebody would mind peeking at a wiring diagram for this machine for me, would they? Pressure switch colour codes…

    Cheers!

    #357691
    markocosic
    Participant

    Re: Hoover Nextra HNF6167 Won’t Spin

    Took a guess. Blue is permanent neutral no matter what. Blue, yellow, and red all go to the main board. Ergo blue is the ‘common’ and red/yellow are the two pins it switches between. Red and blue signalled machine full ok, so yellow and blue must signal when its empty.

    It now fills ok, and tries to spin. Except that it still doesn’t spin. Accelerates aggressively for a fraction of a second then turns slowly. Stops. Accelerates aggressively for a fraction of a second then turns slowly in the opposite direction. stops. and so forth.

    Thought it might be the drum imbalance widget, but it does the same whether machine is empty, semi full of dry clothes, or full of sopping wet clothes.

    Any ideas? I’m fairly stumped at this point!

    #357692
    markocosic
    Participant

    Re: Hoover Nextra HNF6167 Won’t Spin

    Ignore the two previous posts – I got my wires all mirrored.

    The sensor is a single pole, double throw switch. “full” and “not full” as it were. Four terminals, only three are electrically connected though.

    Wiring as was:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/24994361@N03/6078298126/

    Wiring the way it should be to make it work: (tidied and cable tied later)

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/24994361@N03/6078299316/

    LOL…

    Blue and yellow = “full” (stop filling)
    Red and yellow = “not full” (ok to spin)

    More back story from the mother. Turns out that the outer casing of this machine broke spectacularly (spring mounting came off) on a spin cycle. It had a new drum casing (revised design), new concrete blocks, and a new PCB under warranty. Looks like when these were fitted the wiring was put together the same way I’ve just put it together – using the WAG (wild ar$e guess) method. When back together the mother refused to have it in the house again, lest it go bump bang bang bang clatter smash sploosh trip the power again, so bought a new machine and retired this one to ‘duvets only’ duty before I got it. Duvets were never spun, so she never noticed that it didn’t work! :rolls:

    Does the trick now though, for $0.00 unless you could cursing it. 😀


    Door interlock – having to wait two full minutes if you hit ‘start’ think ‘damn there’s a spare sock’ then hit ‘cancel’ is infuriating, especially when you know full well that there’s no water in the machine and its not spinning. If the manufacturers would just remove the two minute delay in the first place, or fit a water-sensor lock like the old machines, or get a little smarter with their ‘brain’ programming to let you open it at any point up until its full of water, I’d have no want/need to bypass it.

    Its a piece of cake to (reversibly) bypass once you pull the mechanism off and clip it apart. Won’t say how though – if you’re smart enough not to stick your head inside on a spin cycle you’re smart enough to see how once its in bits. Even I wouldn’t do it if you’ve got kids/pets/grannies in the house though.

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