Home › Forums › Public Support Forums › Help And Support › Washing Machine Help Forum › Hotpoint 1st Edition 1000 WM52 Stopped Working.
- This topic has 7 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 2 years, 6 months ago by
granton33.
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October 9, 2023 at 7:10 pm #102303
granton33
ParticipantHi, I bought this machine new almost 25 years ago, it was generally used weekly and it has never missed a beat until now. I had stuck it on a quick wash and it maybe got about half way through and then it stopped with no light on. After doing a bit of research online, the two most likely culprits that kept coming up were the motor brushes and door lock. I checked the brushes and they seem fine with plenty life in them, so then I pulled out the door latch and did some checks. There seemed to be no continuity on any of the connectors. So I ordered a new oem one and checked that before fitting and there was now continuity between the main live and neutral connectors. I was so confident this was the problem, that I put it all back together and back into place and switched it on, still nothing!! Any ideas anyone, internal fuse etc? or is it just too old to warrant going any further? Being a motorcycle technician to trade, I hate the fact that there is just so little technical information out there on white goods etc.
October 9, 2023 at 7:39 pm #488266electrofix
Moderatormake sure you have the connections on the lock correct
if yes check the timer connection board for blown pcb tracks
Dave
October 9, 2023 at 9:12 pm #488267granton33
ParticipantHi Dave, yes I photographed connections before disassembly and will check board soon, cheers Grant.
October 9, 2023 at 9:53 pm #488268iadom
ModeratorCheck the tracks to the plug that sits on the top edge of the timer at the very front of the board. That’s the most common place that fails when door lock has blown. I never had to replace a complete control unit for this fault. It’s usually only one track that has blown so I used to cut the corresponding wire off the plug and soldered a short length of any insulated wire to a suitable spot on the track side of the timer below the blown track. I then joined that wire to the wire I had cut from the front connector plug. Over the years I did this many, many times with 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} success. I have seen attempts to repair the track or build up a thin line of solder on top of the burnt track but found my method worked best for me.:cool:
October 9, 2023 at 10:05 pm #488269granton33
ParticipantHi Iadom, thanks for that, Im feeling fairly confident that yourself and Dave will have probably nailed it regarding any board problems, I’ll let you both know the outcome asap, cheers Grant.
October 9, 2023 at 10:19 pm #488270iadom
ModeratorAs far as tech info goes send me a DM with your email address and I may have some stuff buried deep in my PC that could be useful.
October 10, 2023 at 6:03 pm #488271granton33
ParticipantWell success guys with the diagnostics at least, yes blown track in far top left corner, it connects the black neutral wire from the door switch to one below the main timer unit. I will get equipment down from my unit next time I’m up and update you on the repair which should be successful this time around, fingers crossed and many thanks again.
October 12, 2023 at 10:53 pm #488272granton33
ParticipantHi Jim and Dave, blown track by-passed and she’s good as new again for £13.50, here’s for another 25 years, although its unlikely I’ll be around to do it all over again lol. Many thanks for your great and highly accurate diagnostics and for the tech info Jim, Redards Grant.
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