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Thanks. I ordered the spider, which, at least from the photo, looks exactly the same as what is currently on the drum. I had read some information (somewhere) about them changing the size of the bearings – 30mm and 35mm. I don’t know if this is correct, but at least with the bearings coming with the spider, I won’t have that problem. I’m dousing the existing bolts holding the spider on with WD40, so hopefully by the time I receive the spider, it will be possible enough to get them off. If I had only known that I was going to order the spider, earlier yesterday, I wouldn’t have spent hours cleaning all the gunk out of it with a wire brush, etc. My existing spider really doesn’t look too bad, considering the failed ones that I see on the internet, where there are cracks completely across the arms of the spider. My current one only has one small hole in the raised, center part of the spider, but you’re right – there’s no sense going through all of this, and not replacing the spider, considering the damage that a failed spider can do. I will say I’m pretty darned proud of myself, as well. With the help of you tube videos and this forum, I’ve dismantled a good part of my machine, and am in the process of repairing it properly. Not too bad for an ‘old female’….LOL
Thanks again for all the assistance that I’ve received here!!Jane
The different sized bearings relate to much later WMA machines, yours have never changed in size at all.
NB: You should also replace the large black rubber seal from the drum front, failure to do this will often lead to leaks, don’t be tempted to use silicone to reseal.
Part number of seal is C00168172, can’t seem to see it or pattern alternative in our shop though?Found it, the seal you SHOULD replace is THIS one.
iadom wrote:The different sized bearings relate to much later WMA machines, yours have never changed in size at all.
NB: You should also replace the large black rubber seal from the drum front, failure to do this will often lead to leaks, don’t be tempted to use silicone to reseal.
Part number of seal is C00168172, can’t seem to see it or pattern alternative in our shop though?Hahaha. I beat you to it – I already ordered that, and it’s been delivered. Now I’m just waiting for the spider kit – and in the meantime, I’m going to have to learn how to drill out rusty bolts. This is becoming a real adventure.
My spider doesn’t look nearly as bad as the photo previously posted. But since I’ve dismantled down this far, I might as well put on the new spider…..
believe me its worth fitting it. lets face it there is a hole in it which means its on its way. do a proper job and it will last
Dave
Agreed, I wouldn’t risk putting that back even if a customer said keep it going for a few weeks. If you do manage to remove it then knock that end with the hole on a hard surface outside and I promise you it will fracture.
I am replacing the spider – I’ve ordered it and it should be here on Monday, which gives me a couple of days to tackle these rusty nuts and bolts. I agree – there is no sense putting this kind of effort into this machine, having dismantled it, etc., and put it back with parts that will eventually cause problems in the future. I’m being a good girl…LOL
OK, last question…I promise!! My original spider had the bolt, a triangular washer on the spider side of the drum, a triangular washer on the other side of the drum, and a nut on the other side, as well. I see that the new spider has no triangular washer on the spider side – presumably the change in the spider has accommodated for this. On the other side, where there was another triangular washer and nut originally, I’m assuming that the new triangular washer with the nut already part of it, is the replacement. However, that new triangular washer has a lip on it – I’m assuming that the lip faces away from the drum (as it doesn’t seem to attach or hold anything). Just wanted to be sure this was correct before I installed it all. Thanks!
from my previous post on page 1
“also if you have the early spider the end of the arms may be different. the early ones used a triangular washer but in the later ones it was moulded in so you discard the washer on the spider side of the drum. As a rule discard everything and only fit what the kit contains”
and yes the fins face away it just makes them stronger
Dave
Yup, I remember everything you wrote on page 1 – just was ‘explaining’ while circuitously getting to the point of my question – which was the fins go. Thanks for the info. And thanks again for seeing me through all of this. Much appreciated.
So, it appears that the man who was going to ‘help’ me remove these bearings isn’t going to show up. Sadly. I have been spraying the bearings with WD40 – but would love to know if there is any ‘trick’ to removing them other than just manhandling them out by banging with a hammer/small sledge and ‘chisel’ (and I don’t have one small enough to enter through the rear bearing to get to the front one. I’m determined to do this, however….LOL
all you need is a piece of steel bar about 20mm diameter or bigger about 12inches long
the rear one is normally easy a few taps and its out
the front one can be more problems
technique
with a hammer and bar insert the bar through the front bearing till it touches the rear bearing, now you need to knock it out evenly so place the bar on the left side and tap it with the hammer then move the bar to the right side and tap again. keep repeating this and the bearing will work its way out
the front bearing first you will have to remove the seal in front of it . you can prise it out with a big screwdriver, you may have to use the steel bar to distort it so it comes loose but the one thing you need to avoid id damaging the tube that runs through the rear tub
after the seal is out you will see the front bearing. you need to scrape off any signs of corrosion or lime scale that maybe there. what your trying to do is make sure nothing can make it more difficult to remove. when you happy spray a little wd40 at the from of the bearing then go round the back and with the steel bar and hammer knock it out the same way as the rear one
Dave
I was able to get the rear bearing out by myself – the one inside the tub, well, it’s nice to know handy guys who have proper tools, etc. My neighbor got the bearing out for me in about 10 minutes. We put the new bearings in (or rather, he did). Fortunately, he hung around for a while, as the clips holding the front panel on to the outer tub were a LOT more difficult to do, when the new seal went on. At that point, I figured all was well, and sent him home. And all did go well….until….. a plate that fits on the switch for the door assembly fell off, and I wasn’t sure how it went back on. I may have assembled it correctly, but probably not, I couldn’t find a photo of this to confirm it. Anyway, all went back as it should…..BUT….the closing of the door feels a bit different now….and the door switch ‘clicks’ sometimes and the machine works – and other times it doesn’t. Are there any photos of how this switch should be? It had a ‘sliding plate’ on it. That being said, when the door closes properly, the machine works, and the locking mechanism on the door works as well. However, after all this hassle, I’d really like to get this corrected if I could…..?????
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