Hotpoint 95360 inlet valve filter

[electrofix]

the thing next to the inlet valve is the mains supressor

chance are you have just popped a fuse

Dave

[inisfad]

I have to say, I absolutely adore this machine. A stupid, girlie response, I know.
You are right, yesterday the spark just blew the circuit breaker to the wall outlet, and once reset, the electricity to that outlet was fine. (I am curious as to why the circuit breaker would blow, rather than the 13 amp fuse in the washer’s plug…..). This morning, with some trepidation, I decided to do a wash, and the machine is working properly as though I never abused it at all, yesterday. I’ve ordered the two valves specific to the machine, and will use my adventure yesterday as a learning experience so that, when the new valves come, I am as proficient as a plumber in putting them in.
Thank you again for all your assistance (and patience) with someone who probably shouldn’t be indulging in these adventures….:)

[inisfad]

My adventure with this machine continues….lol. Just a fast question here. I replaced the hot and cold water valves, while I was waiting for my suspension kit to arrive (as in another delightful thread…..). If you recall from this thread, one of the original valves appeared to be leaking when the machine was turned off. I believe it was the cold water valve. Anyway, after I did the suspension repair, I did a load of wash. Initially, it sounded like a lot more water than usual was coming in through the soap dispenser drawer. The wash went well, but when all was finished, I noticed some water on the floor. Ugh. The hose in the back of the machine, going to the cold water valve, was wet, and, when opening up the machine, I saw that one of the hoses on the double cold water valve (the on the right, as I face the machine, going to the soap dispenser, was wet….strangely, on the top of the hose??? Neither this hose, nor the inlet hose at the back of the machine, was wet prior to the replacement. The hoses were secured properly, as far as I can tell. Would a faulty inlet valve cause this?

[inisfad]

Just to add, I’ve put the original cold inlet valve back on the machine, and just turned the water off to the machine so the machine doesn’t fill. I’ll be able to tell if this has ‘repaired’ the machine when I do the next load, but was just curious as to what might be the cause of this….???

[iadom]

The valves themselves cannot cause an internal leak unless they have been physically damaged. Common on machines in garages that had been allowed to freeze bursting the valve. In this instance it would suggest something has been dislodged slightly during refitting the suspension. Observing the machine during fill with the lid off should reveal the cause. Some of the later, non gen fill valves can fill much faster than the original valves. Reducing the pressure at the tap on the blue hose can help.

[inisfad]

Strangely, the hoses from the inlet valve to the soap dispenser were wet on top of the hoses…..I can’t figure out why that would be. ??? Thanks for the tip about the non gen fill valves filling faster. I can reduce the pressure. I’ll have to pull the lid off and watch while the machine is filling with water. By the time I’m finished with this, I’ll be able to put ‘washing machine repairman’ on my CV….lol

[inisfad]

By the way, there are two hoses that go from one of the cold water inlet valves. One piece goes from the valve to some connector on top of the soap dispenser, and then from that connector forward, there is another hose. Both those hoses were wet on top….???

[inisfad]

Considering that I have an ‘economy wash’, I have two hoses that come in through the back. The hot water hose goes to a single inlet valve. The cold water goes to a double inlet valve. What is the different between the two sides of the double inlet valve? I assume that the solenoid allows only on side of the valve to operate for it’s function. As my leak was on the hose on the right side (closest to the suppressor) do you know what the function of that hose is? I noticed the water during the first rinse cycle…..

[electrofix]

hot valve takes main wash powder

cold valve one takes pre rinse powder and supplies water for pre wash and rinses
cold valve 2 is just for the fabric conditioner

Dave

[inisfad]

I’m not sure I understand. I set my timer for a regular wash (no pre wash, etc.). So the hot valve (hot water) does the main wash. Now I get 2 rinses. Is what I’m thinking as the 2nd rinse actually a cycle for fabric conditioner (which I never use). I always wondered why the machine rinses twice.
I guess I’ll take the lid off, and watch what’s going on. I was actually afraid to do that, as all the videos I’m watching, when they take the lid off to show you what’s going on, always say ‘Don’t do this at home!!!! This should only be done by a professional!!’ That scared me…..:)

[electrofix]

on very hot wash machine energises hot valve only in initial fill. on cooler washes it energises a cold valve as well otherwise garments that are meant to be washed at 40 degrees will shrink and run

Dave

[iadom]

Pretty sure these machines do at least three rinses with the fabric conditioner taken in on the last rinse. All the hoses fit onto the rear top of the detergent dispenser. The small rectangular box with a couple of holes in the top is the air break. If the pressure is to high the water can spurt out of the top of the air break.

[inisfad]

Just curious, what is the purpose of the air break?? I’m on a well, so while I wouldn’t expect that I have great water pressure, but I do know that when using the machine for the first time after putting in the new inlet valves and suspension rod, I was very aware that the water was coming in to the soap dispenser at a far greater rate (and much louder) than it had done with the original valves. I had replaced both the single hot water valve, and the double inlet valve. After doing the load (and then finding water under the machine, I pulled out the machine and found that the cold water hose (from the machine to my plumbing) was damp. That could possibly be because the new cold water attachment didn’t seem to screw in nearly as far in as my original. I then opened the top of the washer and found that only the cold water hose, closest to the suppressor, was wet. That circuit is compromises of 2 hoses. One hose from the valve to the rectangular box (air break) and one hose from the air break forward. Both those sections of hose were wet….mostly on the tops of the hose. I put back my original double cold water inlet valve, to see if this will make a difference.
I will say I’m a bit nervous about taking the top off, and then starting the machine up to see where the leak is, as a few sites warn about ‘experienced servicemen being electrocuted and killed’ when doing this…lol. Not particularly comforting, but if my old inlet valve (which didn’t leak before, but was part of the issue of the drum filling with water when the machine was off) doesn’t ‘fix’ this new leak issue, I’ll make sure I’m really vigilant about electricity, etc., and try this. Hopefully, I won’t have to….;)

[iadom]

The air break is to stop cross contamination between the hot and cold water feeds.

[electrofix]

the air break is mandatory on all appliances. if the water supply is cut off for some reason its possible the water would flow the wrong way down the inlet pipe. with the air gap all you will get is clean water going back into the pipe. with no air break it would be possible for detergent to be sucked into the clean water supply

if there cant be an air break you must fit a double check valve to stop reverse flow

Dave

[Author]

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