Hotpoint 95360 inlet valve filter

[inisfad]

I decided today to do a load of wash and try to find out where this leak is coming from. I let the machine go through the fill and soap cycle. Having put newspaper under the machine, I found that the leak was coming from the left side of the machine, but when I opened the machine up, I saw that it was not coming from the top. I flipped the machine on its side, and found that the new shock absorber was wet. Unable to see anything further, I dismantled the machine and, using a small mirror, found 3 small gashes, about 1/2 inch long, in the plastic outer tub, just around where the new shock absorber was installed. It seems that when the old shock broke, during those few spins that continued before I could stop the machine, the old shock cut into the plastic tub. Frankly, I cannot tell if the gashes go all the way through, but I cannot find anything else that remotely looks out of place. The machine didn’t leak until the shock absorber incident.

So, now my question. I really can’t imagine having to go through the whole scenario again as I did once, to replace the bearing…..trying to remove the spider was a nightmare, and doing the bearings was just as bad. The thought of replacing the outer, plastic tub is perhaps just that step beyond my threshold of fixing this machine. Is there anyway to repair these little gashes in situ, so that, if my issue is with the outer drum, it no longer leaks? Something like silicone sealant or something similar? Anything? I’m starting to feel defeated…..:(

[iadom]

An epoxy based putty can often be used to seal the drum from outside if you are lucky. Do a Google for Milliput, used that for years with decent success rate.

Have also used this. https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/quiksteel-steel-reinforced-epoxy-putty

[inisfad]

I found a tube of Stix All in my cabinet. What do you think?? The area of the gashes are really hard to get to…they are right at the top of the suspension unit, to the side of it. It’s impossible to get a putty knife or anything like that in there. And impossible to see without a mirror. I’ll check out the stuff your recommend, although I question that caveat of ‘if you are lucky’. I’m not feeling too lucky right now….lol

[inisfad]

This stuff: https://irl.sika.com/en/construction/joint-sealing/elastic-adhesive-bonding/everbuild-stixall.html

[inisfad]

OK, found Milliput and of course no one sells it near me. I’ll order it on the internet. Thanks for the recommendation (and hope!!)

[inisfad]

I also found this webpage, where the guy solders the plastic, uses an epoxy like MIlliput, and then uses the adhesive that you mentioned in another post. Seems somewhat doable….. this would be a LOT easier, though, if I could remove the side wall of the machine, rather than going through the front, where I have little access. Is it possible to remove the side of the machine??

[electrofix]

no main case is one welded unit. only the front and top comes off

its not too hare to take the whole drum out as one peice just time consuming

Dave

[inisfad]

I’ve never taken the outer drum off. I removed the inner drum when I did the bearings, and found that the hardest part of all was getting the spider off. Maybe I won’t have such a tough time with it this time. The original one had been on for almost 40 years. I replaced the spider when I did the bearings 4 years ago, so maybe not so bad. I assume that I won’t have to take the outer drum off, and hassle with bearings again, and imagine that repairing the little gashes, if, indeed this is actually the problem, will be a better fix if it’s done from inside the tub. I’ve ordered the Milliput and hope to find some Debhor, like the video above recommends. I have to say that after the suspension rod repair, which came out so well, that I feel a bit defeated at having another problem. Part of me jus wants to give up……

[electrofix]

you wont need to take the spider off the drum. Just take the front off, remove the 30mm nut and pulley and remove the inner drum

with the right tools should take less than 20min

Dave

[inisfad]

You’ll have to excuse my ignorance in all of this….I thought that the spider is another name for the pulley that comes off when you remove that 30mm nut??? In the videos I watch, they remove the nut, pull the tub forward a bit to remove the pulley (spider??) that is held on by that nut, then bang (carefully) on the exposed ‘screw’ to push the inner tub out. They also remove the belt at the rear (prior to all of this). It’s been a long time since I did the bearings, so I don’t quite remember….It was that 30mm nut that was a nightmare to get off, however.

[iadom]

The spider is the 3 legged alloy part with the steel shaft bolted to the back of the inner drum. The drum pulley is screwed onto the drum shaft at the back of the machine.

[inisfad]

Thanks! You’ve jolted my memory! I remember now. 🙂

[inisfad]

Well, I’ve ordered the Milliput and Debor, and have been scouring the internet and reading the info here, to get myself mentally prepared for my attempt to fix the outer drum. In the tutorial on this website, you talk about soldering the plastic together, but with the caveat that it’s really easy to burn through the plastic. Well, ugh. I’ve never soldered. I haven’t stripped the machine down yet, but I think that my leak is quite small….the water doesn’t come gushing out, but more like drip, drip every second. I think it’s just a tiny puncture from a sharp bit on the suspension rod that broke. Anyway, my question….will the Milliput be good enough for this repair? I am hoping to do Milliput over the puncture, and then Debor around the perimeter of my Milliput repair. I really don’t want to attempt the soldering….but I want my repair to work. So have you ever repaired a small leak in the plastic tub without soldering? Just with the Milliput? Any advice, tips, tricks, etc.,???

[iadom]

Don’t bother with Debhor, it is for sealing rubber hoses to drums. Personally I have managed to seal this particular leak from the outside. Difficult to access but doable. If you do remove the inner drum make sure your repair is quite flush, there isn’t a big gap between the sides of the inner and out drums at that point.

[inisfad]

I’m unable to get to the leak from the outside, sadly, without removing the outer drum from the machine, as well as removing the new suspension rod . It was impossible to see the outside of the drum at that point (even in order to tighten the bolt for the suspension rod). The leak is just at the point where the suspension rod broke, if my assessment is correct. Thank you for the info about keeping the repair flush…I’ll measure the gap between the inner and outer drum, before I take the inner drum out, in order to see how much space I have to work with. In the video that I have been watching (again and again), the guy uses the Debhor to ensure that there is no leak in the perimeter of the repair, where the putty meets the plastic. Maybe overdoing the repair, although I’m desperate for this to work. Hopefully, when I get in there and actually see the damage, it will not be too heartbreaking. Thanks, as always, for the info!

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