Hotpoint Aquarius Condenser Dryer Tdc32p

[Valleyboy22]

Hi everyone thanks for your advice up to now.
Finally got my new stats for the dryer, and surprise surprise it still doesn’t produce heat but works.
From the time the wife used the dryer last, till she came to use it again was about two months and when she came to use it no heat, don’t understand.
Have you experts any ideas what it could be if it was working and producing heat before when she left it but not know, am I missing something.
The parts I have replaced previously at different times was new rear stats and the Dryer relay which sits a at the top of the machine behind the front facia. Hope this helps and I have given enough info.

Thanks again for your expertise and help.

Valleyboy

[electrofix]

try the float in the pump chamber. if this has stuck it switches of heater on some models

Dave

[Valleyboy22]

Thanks for coming back Dave.
Is the float in the pump chamber easily accessible and not a sealed unit, and what would cause it to stick.
Would the stat above the inside of the door also cause it not to heat up.
So many questions, iam not a defeatist trying to get it fixed.
Other suggestions from other engineers would be much appreciated also, With other engineers not coming back is the problem bigger than it is.

Thanks in advance

Valleyboy

[electrofix]

there are onle so many things it can be and things need to be checked
in a lot of these dryers the float chamber can get full of fluff or it just jams but if it activates the switch normally it cuts off the heater.
its located in ther bump rear left hand side. you have to take off the left side to release the clips

Dave

[murv]

This dryer is an older one without a pump.

The foat chamber is towards the centre back of the machine inconveniently between the motor and the condenser / water bottle.

Line drawings are here – https://parts.hotpoint.co.uk/category/model_TDC32P

[iadom]

Float microswitch is a real pain to access. I have changed the odd one without completely removing the drum but is a PITA to get at.:(

Also if the float was stuck the ‘empty water’ light should illuminate, if the switch has burnt out it won’t.

[Valleyboy22]

Hi all back again.

Taken side of where the condenser is correct what a PITA to get at the part in question, so replaced and took off the other side where the motor is to get a better view.

Saw the top of the float where the float wire comes out and moved it up and down, it doesn’t seem to be stuck and with power moving the wire on top of the float up and down, the micro switch works turning the empty light on and off.

Checking Heater three wires going in Brown at the top, Orange middle and blue bottom how do you check for continuity with the multimeter, I have done this correct me if I am wrong.

Brown to Blue 83 ohms, Blue to Orange 41.8 ohms, Orange to Brown 41.8 ohms on the lowest setting.

Re- measured the new stats 0.9 ohms on lowest setting.

What is stopping this machine from HEATING up…….. HELP I am I running out of options .

Thanks all for all your input.

Valleyboy

[iadom]

From your previous thread, https://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/forum…663#post871663

As you have said the stat in the door surround is ok then you are left with the control timer as a possible cause.

[Valleyboy22]

Hi Iadom thanks for the info.
Checked the stat inside the door that seems to be o.k 0.9 ohms can you tell me if I am reading it right.
What should the heater read when testing it. Three wires coming out of the heater, should you test outside to outside or middle to outside and what should they read.
With the timer how do you check that? you said it could possibly be that.
Totally out of knowing what to do now, normally i have come on this site and you guys have come up trumps with what is wrong.
Just a thought, is there a fuse that could have blown, apart from the stats to stop the heater from working.

Thanks

Valleyboy

[iadom]

I have already confirmed that the readings you gave for the heater earlier are about right and as I have also stated a faulty heater will show obvious physical damage 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time. You really need a wiring diagram to check the control timer circuits but again as I have mentioned already the timer is sadly NLA now. No fuses involved in the heater circuits either. Occasionally the wiring terminals that go to the heater circuits can show signs of overheating when the timer fails but not every time. As a last resort I can send you the timer connections but it will be tomorrow some time.

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