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does anyone know if you can replace armature in late wm motors (green sticker) for older type hotpoint motor armature i know you can change tacho on some and they will work ok, but not sure which ones are found in which motors,
si
Re: hotpoint armatures
There’s a post about this somewhere Simon.
I think it’s in the 1603071 armatures no longer available thread, a forum search for either 1603070 or 1603071 should provide the answer 😉
Dave.
Re: hotpoint armatures
Dave_Conway wrote:There’s a post about this somewhere Simon.
This is the thread Dave refers to, for your convenience 😆
http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/modules.p … opic&t=816
Martin
Re: hotpoint armatures
Qualtex does a pattern armature which will do it if you ring them they will tell you which one it is as i havent got the part number to hand.
Re: hotpoint armatures
I’ve fitted every permutation of armature / motor combination over the years and never had any comeback. It is important to swap over the tacho magnets though. I suppose it was inevitable that Merloni would drop the armature option as they never offered this on the Indesco motors. I’ve never tried the Qualtex armatures, I had enough trouble with their Hotpoint brushes before I started only buying genuine ones.
Re: hotpoint armatures
mandm wrote:Qualtex does a pattern armature which will do it if you ring them they will tell you which one it is as i havent got the part number to hand.
ARM20
Martin
Re: hotpoint armatures
thanks guys, will read thread, i know qualtex have new type brushes out, blueish/black reaction, have tried a few seem ok, but have had a lot of black hotpoint gen carbons burn out 🙁 lately, have been using only white hotpoint carbons with not 1 recall for about 2 months 😀
simon
Re: hotpoint armatures
Surprising Simon – I stopped using 1600474’s about 18 months back as the composition of the holders changed and the damned things melted in no time – even on new armatures. Stayed with 161460’s ever since with no problems.
Chris.
Re: hotpoint armatures
Typical Big Company attitude – won’t admit there’s a problem, just quietly change the product – is it still 1600474 or is there another part number?
Chris.
Re: hotpoint armatures
Simon46 wrote:How is everyone finding the brownish coloured ones?
I think Simon is referring to the 1600474 that are coming in that shade of plastic lately. ‘Tis true that in the last 12 months I have had half a dozen recalls with these brushes burning out prematurely. I think I will consider Penguins advice and start fitting the 161460 instead as there seems no logic as to why these brushes fail so badly.
I have found many 1600474’s are noisy and need careful ‘bedding in’ at low speed before attempting a full spin test?
What is the difference between laminated and none anyway unless its the hardness if the carbon used :con:
Martin
Re: hotpoint armatures
Martin..the difference apparently is as much to do with the commutator as the brush…by using a harder laminated brush which has a wafer of lubricant down the middle a harder copper alloy can be used for the comm which in theory leads to longer brush/armature life.
I say in theory because i’ve had one or several over the last year or so that have failed…i just wonder if its the crimp on the tag in the brush thats not made well enough….when i replace a set i release the brush from the grip before installing in the motor then guide the brush in with a finger. I have had three or four sets recently that when i release the grip the brush flies clean out of the holder altogether…spectacular but not very impressive! This brings back memories of the first Hoover matchbox series where the brushes had no tag at all, just relying on the surface contact of the holder to make contact…had loads of those where the brush burnt within the holder because of poor contact.Re: hotpoint armatures
Clive,
Brilliant observation and I think you’ve sussed it for us thanks :tup:
99.99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time we all are guilty of sliding the brushes into place BEFORE releasing the holding tab for obvious reasons. But by using your method of releasing them first to ‘test’ if the copper lead is firmly attached before resetting the tabs for ease of installation (if preferred) then we may well avoid those duff brushes that burn out I guess?
Martin
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