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hi
i have a hotpoint dishwasher BF1620two leds are flashing and dishwasher stopping after 30 seconds can you help me with the error code , its the first (hotwash) and third (rinse) leds.
i have checked all pipes and motors for blockages and heater looks ok (got 26 ohms ),
or should i just scrap it after all i got a good trouble free 8 years out of it ?
Re: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
It’s a BFI620, I for integrated. 😉
1+3 is supposed to be blocked filters, faulty pressure switch or main circulation pump failure. Are the spray arms operating correctly is there a good jet of water coming out of them?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HDRe: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
ya an i makes more sense i hadn’t spotted that Thanks :boops:
well iv checked all filters and pipes they seem ok so it might be the other two
not sure how two check spray arms, do i need to find the door sensor and simulate door closed then start machine?
Re: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
Just put it on a wash cycle and open the door quickly when it sounds as though it should be washing, it will be obvious if the jets are spraying normally, have a towel handy 😉
Re: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
turned dishwasher on it make a few noise’s for 30 seconds and cut out. not a drop of water made it to the spry arms
Re: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
Oh dear, sounds like main circulation pump failure, not uncommon on these. 😥
Does it actually fill after the initial drain sequence?
Re: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
wow this is crazy just turned it on to see what sequence it failed and it ran fine, stopped it and started twice more in different programs and they ran fine too.
checked the sprays and there spinning , its draining the water too
guess what ever’s faulty in it has a small bit more life.
Re: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
well its back not working again
i think iv ruled out the drain pump, i put water in and it drains it fine but the clean water does not kick indoes it still sound like the circulation pump ?
any advice pleaseRe: hotpoint bf1620 LED error
I have just had these problems, I went on Monday to attend this dishwasher with circulation pump fault.
Turned out that all are well, dodgy pressure switch, I removed the pressure switch and gave a blow then returned it. It worked. So now I am having to return to the job with same fault. I think I will put in new pressure switch then?
Failing that, what should I look for elsewhere then?
Matt
Iadom does a good job here of trying to point you, and me in the right direction, but let me share where I ended up.
F5 Fault code. F5 is number 1 and 3 LEDs flashing and indicates, according to the manual your machine has a blocked filter. The reality is it may not be a blocked filter at all, as was the case with my machine. The filter was always perfect and rinsed out regularly. And it may not be any faulty components either – as was the case for my machine. The trigger for the code is a lack of pressure change at the low pressure switch. The low pressure switch is mounted on the side of the machine frame and connected to the wash chamber by a long rubber tube. After turning on, the machine goes through a drain cycle pumping out any water/fluid that might be in the wash chamber before starting the initial fill. Then the drain pump stops and the solenoid opens to allow the machine to fill. My machine would drain, fill and then stop with LEDs 1 and 3 flashing. I could reset the machine and it would do the start up perfectly as above and get to the same point and stop. I removed the high pressure switch and low pressure switch and both were working fine. I applied air pressure to them and the electrical contacts closed. I put it back together and it still would not get beyond the end of the initial fill stage. I took off the turbine fill chamber and washed it out and checked the electrical signal from the turbine. There is one hell of a lot of unhelpful advice out there ! I wasted many, many hours.
On one site someone stated that they had observed the fitter remove the pressure switch and blow into the tube before charging him for a new switch. I pulled the pipe off the low pressure switch and did the same. The machine now works perfectly. Obviously there was something modest blocking up the pipe. The machine had not been used for a couple of months before the failure so something must dried out and blocked the pipe. The pipe just traps a column of air. As the water level in the chamber rises, so it compresses the air trapped in the pipe. This very small change in pressure causes the switch to throw and informs the control system the wash chamber is now full to a suitable level. Doing the final repair, removing the pipe and blowing into it and then refiting it took me 3 minutes. F5 on the Hotpoint Indesit maintenance system is rarely mentioned and although I visited around 50 sites, the minority that did mention it all just referred to blocked filters. At one site a fitter advised that it could be a faulty pressure switch but did not help by advising which switch and how to identify it – so that is why I ended up testing both. There are some great videos out there detailing all the fault codes, but often they simply waltz past the F5 and ignored the guy asking the question in the comments – what is it. So I am going to post up this comment in a couple of other places as well, so no one else has to waste quite as much of their life as me finding out they don’t need to pay a fitter £70 call out for a new pressure switch when the fix is so easy.
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