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The dishwasher stopped part way through a wash the other day, with the ‘Eco’ light flashing. The drip tray float switch had activated due to a split waste hose (moving the machine to get access to another job caused a kink which split!).
A hose was ordered, everything cleaned and dried and I thought would be good to go.
The machine filled up to the point when it would normally start pumping the water, but instead the machine emptied and two lights started flashing. The ‘Eco’ and the ‘Prewash’ lights flash together which, according to the manual (and what I’ve read on here), means the filters are blocked (they are clean). The main pump motor turns by hand and is not open circuit or shorted. The heater tests out ok too. Obviously the waste pump works fine.
Are there any internal filters that could be blocked?
Does the fault code have any other meanings apart from filters?
Can anyone help please?
(I’m an ex-electrician so have basic knowledge, but nothing specific to a blooming dishwasher!)Re: Hotpoint FDW60 Problem…
3&5 can be blocked filters but can also be a faulty circulation pump. After it has drained then filled at the start of any programme does it then start to wash?
Sent from my iPad.
Re: Hotpoint FDW60 Problem…
No, it just empties again. It seems to get to the point where it would start washing but there is no sign (or sound) of the pump starting.
Re: Hotpoint FDW60 Problem…
If you get a loud buzzing at this point then you may have a seized circulating pump as mentioned earlier.
Re: Hotpoint FDW60 Problem…
I can turn the circulation pump by hand. There is a very slight restriction but I imagine that’s just the seals gripping the motor shaft, as it is very slight.
I haven’t checked cable continuity between the motor and the board yet, but have checked the connectors. The motor also test ok, with no short or open circuit. I don’t have anything to test the capacitor.
Do the motor run capacitors fail regularly? If the motor is trying to pull too much current, will the system recognise this and shut it down?
I think I’ll have to test the motor to see if it tries to start during a wash program.
I hope it’s something as simple as a bad connection somewhere!Thank you both for your help so far.
Re: Hotpoint FDW60 Problem…
I’ve had another play with the machine. There is a supply to the pump motor and capacitor. The supply is live when the machine is powered on.
Am I right in thinking the PCB controls the switching of the pump? Are there any switches/sensors that will shut down or affect the pump?
The return cable from the motor to the PCB goes through what looks like a motor operated flap valve of some sort, which is located in the pump (impeller) housing. Can anyone tell me what this valve thingy does please?
I’d really like to rule everything out before I buy a new pump.I know I should really consult a professional, but I really don’t have the funds to do so, which is why I’m pestering you great folks on here. My washing machine is still going strong thanks to the information given to me on these forums.
Thank you again if you have already helped me, and thank you in advance for any further information offered.
Re: Hotpoint FDW60 Problem…
There is a very slight restriction but I imagine that’s just the seals gripping the motor shaft, as it is very slight.
Re: Hotpoint FDW60 Problem…
ily0405, I don’t understand why you’ve quoted that!
Little update: Removed the circulation pump and wired it up on the bench. Runs perfectly.
So I’m still thinking it’s a little valve or switch that is stopping it working (as the PCB tests ok).
Can anyone tell me which switch/sensor/valve would stop the circulation pump from working please?
Would the water level matrix thingy have any such effect if it’s a bit gungy or blocked? I only mention that as I had the machine on it’s side when changing the waste hose, so wondering if any sludge has moved whilst it was on its side.
It has to be something to do with me replacing the waste hose, as it worked fine before that.
Help!
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