- This topic has 12 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 6 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Hi
I have a Hotpoint BD12 Washer Drier that has ‘deceased’!There is power going to the appliance. At the back of the appliance(inside)top right facing it, is a whiteblock connector. This tested for voltage on the brown wire but also on the Blue neutral wire. An open circuit me thinks.
There are no lights on whatsoever and the appliance won’t work on spin, drier or anything. It is ‘deceased’ :rolls:
My immediate thought is the door switch but I don’t know enough about white goods to know for sure or how to test it further. 🙁
My level of competence with electrics is reasonably good. I can read a circuit diagram reasonably well.I can use a continuity ohm meter.Etc etc.. I just don’t know white goods at all but I think now might be a good idea to get to know them. 😀
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
Incorrect model number given.
However, if you have a good circuit to both sides of the mains filter from the plug then chances are the main pcb has failed. 😥
You do not need to have the machine plugged in to carry out the above test, live testing is not needed or advisable.
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
Hi and thanks for responding Ladom.
PCB!. Not what I wanted to hear. 😯 Wrong model number? Oops, missed a W, it should be BWD12 1200 Spin. Only other number on the label behind the door is 25721775.
Trying to track the wiring is a problem unless I start unravelling it. Does the live feed go through the door switch before anywhere else?
I’m aware of the danger of live testing and don’t particularly want to do it but I am at a loss as to what goes to where. Sometimes tracking the current helps. I do know how to do continuity testing and have a decent meter but I get lost with all the bells whistles and flutes in these things.
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
It should be simple with a multimeter to check continuity from the plug top to the mains filter where the cable enters the back of the machine. The power goes into the main pcb before the door interlock. This fault is not uncommon on these poor quality Indesit electronics.
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
Sorry about the initial name error, iadom. I’ll dig my multi meter out and drag the lump out. If I do some pictures will that help? What does the mains filter mean? Is that the white plastic block I mentioned?
Is there a decent book worth reading on doing this sort of job? Someone said Haynes had done one but I can’t say I’ve ever seen it. I’m thinking they must all follow the same or similar principle and it might actually be interesting to delve into further. Sorry, just realised how many questions I asked.Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
Pictures not needed, the mains filter is the square block the mains cable is part of on these machines. If there is no sign of burning on the small plug that goes into the top of the mains filter and you have continuity from the live and neutral pins on the plug to the filter then its 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain the main pcb has failed if the rest of the machine is totally dead.
The Haynes manual is a very basic manual, just imagine if they did a single Haynes manual for all makes of cars, how much use would that actually be. 😉
It is OK for basic, simple tasks such as pump blockages etc but not much of a help with the electrical side TBH.
I have been doing this job for over 47 years and I am still learning. 😀
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
Hi iadom
I just put my tester on the plug and got the following readings.
Touching the probes together the probes gives an audible warning and reading of 0.001
Probes not touching range shows 1.
Testing the plug with On/Off switch off gives a reading of 1.
Testing with On/Off switch on gives a reading of 1.189 with no audible signal.Out of curiosity I checked the Voltage at the brown wire, 238V and the Blue wire, 222V. with the On/Off switch Off. With the On/Off on the Brown is 238V and the Blue has dropped to 219V.
Where should I go next? Sorry about the live check but when I didn’t get a continuity beep I was puzzled by the earlier live voltage showing on both Blue and Brown.
Any help would be really appreciated and thanks for your help up to now.
Meter used is Mastech MY-64 using the continuity position. So, good news I hope? Where next?
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
Martins post whilst not being constructive is understandable. You did say in your first post that your ‘competence with electrics is reasonably good’ yet you seem to be unable to grasp the concept of doing a simple continuity test between the individual pins on the mains plug and the mains filter contacts?
For what it’s worth I still think the chances are that the main PCB is goosed. 🙁
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
Hi
That was already done before I posted. You are referring to the plug that goes into the socket and to the washer, yes? IE… live to live and blue to blue. That is what tested live and yes there is continuity between the Brown to Brown and Blue to Blue. To be clear on the subject, there is electric to the washer. The plug I thought you were referring to was the plug that goes into the mains filter. That is what I tested that last time. The fuse is ok too. If there wasn’t voltage to the washer I wouldn’t have posted on here. So the simple concept of doing a continuity test, I thought had been dealt with in the first post. I did say the washer was dead but had power to it;
I have a Hotpoint BD12 Washer Drier that has ‘deceased’!There is power going to the appliance. At the back of the appliance(inside)top right facing it, is a whiteblock connector. This tested for voltage on the brown wire but also on the Blue neutral wire. An open circuit me thinks.
I also asked you for clarification about the mains filter, which you gave and I then checked the ‘plug that goes from the filter to the washer. That was what didn’t give a continuity reading. I also offered to do photo’s so it could be established we were talking about the same things as I didn’t know what a mains filter was.
So, why the post by Martin? Now, I apologise if I sound ungrateful in this post but Martins dumb post then your comment about grasping the concept of a continuity test doesn’t seem warranted. I asked for help from people who know better than I on this subject for a reason.
To clarify things again, there are no breaks between The Earth, Neutral or Live wires from the mains plug to the appliance.They all check for continuity. The plug I referred to is the internal plug that connects into the white block connector which is attached to the casing.
The puzzle to me and this is a simplified explanation is, if current is flowing from live through the machine to neutral irrespective of the On/Off button then I would suspect a switch under normal circumstances. However not knowing squat about white goods I don’t know how they switch, single or double pole, which side they have switches on-live or neutral nor how they route from and to. I could hazard a guess but I could be wrong and have no experience to draw on. I don’t even have a circuit diagram to help. Hence my post.
I will of course understand after this post if you do not wish to respond or offer any further assistance but not everyone speaks the same language all the time. I read your plug to mean what I would call a block connector and assumed that you would understand that when I said there was voltage to the machine it would be read that I had made sure the problem wasn’t outside of the machine.
Re: Hotpoint washer drier not working.
I will repeat what I said earlier, if you have a sound wall socket and good continuity from the mains plug to the mains filter and there is no sign of life then it is 99{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain the main board has failed. The power does not go direct to the on/off switch which itself is part of the console facia pcb.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.