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Can you please help me locate a diagram that shows how to hook up the wires to the board that someone else took apart? I put them on as best as I could figure them out and now the washer will spin and pump out water when I turn the knob, but refuses to cycle on its own.
Thanks, ronRe: hotpoint wm62 washer
The connector blocks that plug onto the cicuit board only fit in one position due to the cut-outs in each case. The cut-outs correspond with the dividing ridges of each connector plug and usually cannot be located anywhere else? 😉
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
It sounds likely there’s another fault with your machine.
Why was the board originally disconnected, what was the original problem with the machine?
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
Wow, you guys are quick.
Twoten- the original problem was the smell of smoke. Upon opening they found some diodes burned on the board, underneath the where the clock is attached. We bought a used part (we live in Albania….) as this seemed like the best bet, besides waiting eternity for a new part. Before hooking up this newer board, we found that the heating element was burned out. We replaced that and can’t get it to cycle. This newer board doesn’t have any physical signs of burning or damage on it and came with a ‘guarantee’.
what other faults should I check for? Motor works, pump works….
Martin- there are 2 different two wire plugs (green head goes to pump, purple head to temp indicator by element), and one 3 wire one (blue head, goes to economy/super rinse buttons) that can fit on several different positions on the board.
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
OK, thanks for the advice, and I did find that I have the wires connected properly. It still doesn’t work. What should I look for now?
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
Conversing with Ron via e-mail I have discovered that this machine was a gift from N. Ireland to a charity in Albania that Ron works for.
A few questions for you Ron, they may help us to help you.
Has this machine actually worked in Albania?
What is the local mains voltage?
How was the machine transported, upright with the transit bar in place, laid on its back or front or on either side?
Are you sure the replacement timer is for this machine ? There are several timers that appear the same but they are not all interchangable.
When the timer/control unit blows or burns on this machine it is virtually always due to outside influence, faulty door locks and main motors being the biggest culprits. Holes in the door seal leaking onto the door lock, chafed motor harness wiring are also possible causes.
Can you take a picture of the displaced timer and post it up, showing the damaged area, also a picture of the identifying labels on both timers would help.
Water ingress caused by leaks or spillage onto the top of the machine ( or caused by careless transit, see question #3 above) can also lead to timer failure, is the machine in a very damp position?
Check the wiring connection at the bottom edge of the control board nearest the motor, any plug or link in this area must be fitted to contacts marked RPM 53,54,55 and not to the contacts marked TEMP 50,51,52. They are very close together and the plug will fit on either.
With regard to the heating element failure, did it have two grooves about two inches in from the front or was the element damaged in this area? If so then you may have a broken drum support of a bearing fault. Either of these will allow the inner drum to rub on the element leading to failure. Try and lift the inner drum by pushing up inside it at the top, it should not move away from the seal at the bottom edge.
Jim.
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
Thanks iadom,
you have a lot of questions, and I will answer them in order.-yes, the machine worked fine for over a year
-the washer is in an area that I suspect often has low voltage and we will have a voltage stabilizer on it in the future for this lady. I can’t verify the voltage at present since she is a half hour away…. It should be 220v
-when it arrived, it had the transit bar in place, in the original wrapping. It was new and showed no damage, nor does it today.
-the replacement timer looks the same physically, with the following differences I noted:
-advice on why the control unit has blown: there was a hole in the door seal, I suspect from not leveling the machine (tilted forward). I suppose water could have shorted out the door switch. Should it be OK when dry? Or is there a test for it? I see no chafing on any harness or elsewhere. Mounts appear in good condition.
– how do I post a picture of the old timer? Drag a jpeg to this letter? the tag on the timer is a white one, numbers are
513 227
097
904 2425 01 rev.the new one is a red tag:
513 267
308
904 2425 05 rev.– no evidence of water, except as noted above that the door seal is rubbed through at the top, probably from not being levelled. No dampness is noted in their house, in any case all protection was in place.
-now will there for sure be a wiring connection on the bottom of the board closest to the motor? Like I said I didn’t take it apart and no one knows anything about it and the old card doesn’t show any scratches on it. But a repairman (where we bought the newer board) asked where a blue ended harness was…. The schematic shows something on it, but doesn’t show where it hooks up to on the other end. It doesn’t appear to connect to the motor, no place to hook it to that I see. I do have a connector (don’t know if it came from the old one or new one), but can’t see where it connects. What’s up? Do I need to find something? Bummer.
-the heating element doesn’t show any rubbing or damage to it and the bearings seem to be in good condition to me. Appears to be just one of those failures.
Thanks for your advice Jim, sorry for the long answer…. but we are narrowing things down!
ronjavascript:emoticon(‘:)’)Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
Ron,
If you can give us the serial number from inside the door we can date your machine. It will certainly be well over a year old.You can post pictures by uploading them on one of several free hosting sites such as http://www.putfile.com/, another is Image Shack. You can then post a link to the image in a post on this forum.
Timer may correct from that number. I have only seen white or yellow labels though, white for 900/1000 RPM spin & yellow for 1100/1200 RPM.
If water has got inside the door switch it will be permanently damaged or at best very suspect. A very slight backwards tilt is better than leaning forwards.
On your 1000 spin machine, there should be a small plug on the RPM connection on the bottom edge of the board, it does not have any connecting wires leading to other components, it is just a bridging link. If this is missing it should not affect the wash, only the spin speeds, although I have never left one of to see what happens. There should be no connection on the TEMP position.
When the door lock causes timer damage it is usually seen as blown tracks on the back of the PCB, you don’t often see components blown.
Most engineers in the UK would automatically fit a new door lock when changing a timer due to the high incidence of door lock/timer related faults and the low cost of a new door lock.
As was mentioned earlier in this thread, it is essential that you try to isolate the cause of the initial timer failure before installing a new one.
With regard to the heater, in your second post you said the heater had ‘burnt out’ do you just mean that the heater had gone ‘open circuit’ without any physical signs of damage. This can happen and is usually a failure of the heaters internal proctection failing, this can ‘just happen’ as you say.
As you can see from this picture from a recent repair I did, control unit components can fail on these machines, but this type of failure is very rare, in this case the unit itself was faulty with no other component failure at all. You can also see the blue block at the bottom edge, this goes to the variable spin speed switch, something not fitted to your machine.
Jim.
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
Sorry guys, the holidays are taking my time away, but I must get this job done quickly now. She needs the washer! Here are the latest answers:
Inside the door:
Model: WM62P
No. 39147788Pictures (thanks for the directions!):
Is there a way of confirming that the timer is correct?
Can’t confirm if door switch got wet or not, but under trial, it locks and unlocks as it should, the light comes on and goes off as it should too. Isn’t that all?
The missing plug cannot be found. Should I make a bridge? It looks easy enough. Advise. There is nothing connected to the TEMP.
You can see on the picture above that there is a burned track on the back, but it is directly opposite the burned diodes shown on the other side. No other physical defects are noticed on the board. So, it looks like there are a lot of components blown by something else.
If you advise once again, I will track down a door lock and install. Cost isn’t that much of a problem. I have to get it back working quickly!
Well, we assume that we did find the cause of the original timer blowing, with the burned out heater. Next step? Also with the PCB came the water level sensor which I tried also, but without success.
The heater shows a closed circuit between ground and the leads. Nothing was observed as being physically wrong with a visual inspection, except that there was a dark ‘hotspot’ on it, an inch away from the rubber seal.
Well, thanks again. I hope the pictures link to this letter. If not I will include another letter with them on it by themselves.
Yours in deep despair,
RonRe: hotpoint wm62 washer
I have a sneaking feeling that the plug incorporates a couple of resistors, no idea as to the values. It may have some bearing on the motor action apart from the spin speeds, never actualy tried a machine without this plug.
The date code ( first two numbers of serial number) indicate that the machine was produced in March 1997.
Difficult to be precise on the timer model numbers, the 9042425 seems to indicate a similar timer, although I have never seen a red label on a Hotpoint 1603787 timer.
Again, the only way to be certain is to check against a new one. I don’t have one in stock but someone else may have, or one of the helpful Hotpoint/Indesit engineers that frequent this site may have more info.A bit quiet around here due to the holidays, may be a better chance of some further help next week.
Jim.
PS. just to clarify your first post, when you say, ‘refuse to cycle’ but will drain & spin, do you mean it does not do a wash action after filling, not fill at all, or appear not to advance after filling?
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
the plug does contain resistors of varying values.top of my head blue is variable yellow is 1100 and white is 900 without the plug the machine is a 1000 SPIN
(i stand to be corrected on the exact colours)Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
From that it would follow that you may not have had a plug in the first place as the WM62 is designated as a 1000 RPM machine.
Blue is 900, white 1100, no mention of a yellow one. The variable plug with wires to the potentiometer is a blue one as well.
Jim.
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
i think your right iadom but i am sure there was a yellow one maybe it was on the wm 50 somethings.
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
to your ps: turning the knob by hand the machine goes through all the cycles and does what it should. It just won’t cycle on its own. Water level comes up to snuff, drains properly, spins, but just keeps doing the action that the dial is turned to. ron
Re: hotpoint wm62 washer
Does it do a wash action when it has filled, if so this is sounding very much like a faulty timer. I realise it is difficult, or almost impossible to do in your case but if the machine was on ‘my patch’ I would be thinking of trying another timer, most certainly a ‘new’ one.
If you set the machine to a spin programme and it drains & spins but does not advance to OFF then I would strongly suspect a faulty control unit.
Jim.
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