Hotpoint WM62P drum not turning

[Tamarista]

I have a Hotpoint WM62P washing machine, serial no. 74137025. The drum does not rotate during ‘wash’ or ‘spin’.
I have tested the machine on :- two different wash programs, ‘pre-wash’ only, and ‘spin’ only – all with the same result- no drum movement.

• This, typically, is what happens:- select a wash cycle – the machine fills, shuts the inlet valves, but then does nothing further ( I allow ~5 minutes for it to respond) until the facia knob is advanced one click, then – pump starts and the machine empties – pump continues to run until facia knob again advanced one click then – machine starts to fill again. At some points in the cycle, I can hear the timer clicking and can see a cam rotating thro’ a cutout in the rear of the timer body next to the timer motor.
• The circuit board of the programmer shows no sign of burnt components and all plugs are in place.
• I’ve waggled all the plugs and connectors but the motor stays stopped.
• With a test meter on the one accessible motor brush, I read 230VAC to earth throughout the wash cycle until the machine switches off at the end of the cycle.

I replaced the washing machine motor in November last year but, knowing they are a source of problems, took out one of the brushes to check its condition. It was fine, not noticeably worn down.

I see that you sell replacement programmers for this machine, but as per your advice, I’m trying to eliminate other faults before purchasing – but now I’m stuck. Can you advise any other checks I should make?
Thanks.
PS the drive belt is fine!

[iadom]

The motor, motor brushes and motor wiring harness are the source of this fault in over 95{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of cases. It is very rare indeed for the control unit to cause this fault. Was the motor new or refurbished/second hand? Did you check both brushes, what is the condition of the commutator like? At the age of this machine breaks in the wiring harness are common. Carefully tug on all the wires to the motor plug to see if there is a break there. There is also an overload embedded inside the motor that can fail, You need to test the motor circuits individually.

[Tamarista]

Thanks for the advice iadom. The motor was purchased from a local appliance service shop and it is new. I’ll check the harness wiring as you suggest and remove the motor to check second brush/commutator.

[iadom]

The motor readings are as follows.

Tacho (Digital) 220 Ohms (UK Manufactured); 135 Ohms (FHP Germany)
Armature 1.5 Ohms (UK) ; 4.0 Ohms (FHP)
Field 2.24 Ohms (full field – UK) ; 1.0 Ohms
Split Field (1200) 1.18 & 1.06 Ohms (half field – UK); 0.5 Ohms & 0.5 Ohms (FHP)

No need for any live testing at any time.;)

[Tamarista]

Spot-on with your advice iadom!
I found a break in the wiring and two burnt/blackened connections in the plug at the motor end. Circuit board/plug at the other end of the harness showed no signs of overload.
Checked resistance readings on the motor and they are all close (within decimal places) to your figures, so I’m sure the connector damage was caused by the previous faulty motor.
Now, I need to find a new plug. Tried your spares dept. but they don’t have one and advised that it would likely only come as part of a complete harness. The plug has the name PRESSAC on it, found them on-line, but they don’t appear to make connectors.
Any suggestions as to where I might try?
Thanks again for your help.

[andyjawa]

Yes that is right. From memory the connector block itself will not be much use to you as there was a special tool to fit the wires between the tag tangs so the kit is fairly useless as the harness was not made up for you; so back to square one again with the lack of tool again. The motor`s loom connector block kit part number is C00202905 or hotpoint website`s spare ref number is J00148228 if you wanted to know that. What you could do is to buy some cooker 90 degree female tags and insulate every one or every other one thus curing the problem without the tool. You might want to also check where the motor`s loom is cable tied to the chassis as that is where the wires also break with the movement of the tank assembly. If so, and as a point, because the machine is getting on in years, the lower suspension dampers might be getting worn by now so if you did have the machine occasionally banging about with a NORMAL load on prespin that is usually why apart from the top 2 springs that used to break, their achilles heel, but that one is of course obvious and unlike the lower suspension damper kit el cheapo to replace..

[tubafan]

Has this got the right plug on it? – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203418175874?hash=item2f5cab0982:g:BNoAAOSw43Bgaet8

[andyjawa]

Officially that is not for your model BUT, and I never tried it, 1st count the number of wires you have to make sure that the new substitute cable block is not to big or too small before doing anything ( and I cannot say yay or nay and neither can I know whether the gauge of wires are the same thickness though looking at the picture I think they are the same ) and so physically is the right size then you could use it but you might need a sharp knife to cut the little plugs plastic guide pips off ( ? ) so it`ll push into the motor block and 2nd thing do not expect t`other end to plug onto the timer but if worse comes to worst you could cut and join the new part loom to the old existing loom with joiners allowing an extra length too at the same time. If so, problem solved! If you are going to try this and have to cut into the loom ( as I think you may well have to…? ) do ONE wire at a time: ONE FALSE WIRING COCK-UP and you blow the motor / timer.

[iadom]

tubafan wrote:Has this got the right plug on it? – https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203418175874?hash=item2f5cab0982:g:BNoAAOSw43Bgaet8

That looks like a WMA part not a WM.

[andyjawa]

It is or even more recent but it still might fit. I don`t think the bloke has got too many other options frankly other than re-taging so if this does solve the problem the machine live`th again.

[electrofix]

early motor connectors used
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co…ade-with-latch

later ones use insulation displacement connectors which had a special tool to put the wires in. Still got it somewhere.

would need to see a pic to know which

Dave

[Tamarista]

Thanks for your collective wisdom!

I’ll check the harness at the cable tie point for further breaks – cheers for that tip!
I’ve replaced the drum springs a couple of times and ‘yes’ my wife says the machine does make loud knocking noises, so maybe do need new dampers.
Lots for me to consider over the weekend.

Enjoy the holiday!

[Tamarista]

Washing was piling up, so opted to cut off the burnt plug and fit female connectors to each wire. Did one at a time, plugged in, switched on, motor runs, drum turns! Thanks again for all your help!. 🙂

[iadom]

Excellent 😎

[andyjawa]

Superb result. Just make sure everything is taped and cable tied properly so nothing chaffs.

[Author]

Posts