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Slid out the hood to put the lights on the other day – BANG! Yes, one of the bulbs was obviously internally faulty and took out the PCB. The fan still works OK. I’ve read one or two posts on the forum – seems we are not alone. BUT – I can’t get any info on our model – is it discontinued? The little label by the motor deffo has PPL2422 on it, but this is not in any of the lists for spares. Seriously considering rigging up a separate switch with a 3 amp fuse – I think the idea of these low wattage bulbs being on the same fused circuit as the motor is a serious design fault. How ridiculous that a mere bulb can wreck a PCB costing many times what a fuse does. What does the team think?
PeteRe: Hygena cooker hood model PPL2422
Hi
I’d guess that it’s a misprint on your label then and that the model number should be APL2422 – a white slimline extractor with a single fan?
If that’s the case then the good news is that the PCB is one of the cheapest out there at around £10 excluding VAT and P&P – an email to spares@ukwhitegoods.co.uk should be able to get you an exact price & availability. Part numer is 08086073
Re: Hygena cooker hood model PPL2422
Cheers NWAR – I was sure it was PPL but I was having to almost stand on my head to see it. It is the slimline jobbie – I’ll have a better look once I get back home tonight. Mind you, the switch panel looks like it is a bit more than a tenner’s worth. It is the one with the rotary switches; fan switch multispeed, and the light switch off, manual or auto ( goes on with hood pulled out, or did!…) and the PCB about 3 inches in length, now with a blackened bit on.
PeteRe: Hygena cooker hood model PPL2422
Had a proper look, it is an APL2422 after all. Looking at the spares list, however, the picture of the switch shows it as a small square item. Now puzzled. Help!
PeteRe: Hygena cooker hood model PPL2422
Well, sorted it all now. Removed complete assembly, took it into the workshop and stripped out the electrics. Snipped the pink wire from the circuit board. Soldered a new wire to the microswitch output ( the tag with the blue wire on) fed this wire through the sleeving after pulling the pink one out. These wires then were extended out with the input wiring. Put it all together again, and wired in a fused supply socket with a 3 amp fuse in, next to the on/off supply socket in the cupboard above the hood, after refitting the hood assembly. Result? Fan still works, governed by the microswitch as before. Light comes on every time the hood is extended, and not affected by the seperate switch (who cares!) Now if a pesky bulb decides to commit filament suicide, only a 3 amp fuse to replace. Chuffed with the result.
I still can’t work out why the manufacturers feed the lights through a circuit board which is fed from a 13 amp fuse. It is a wonder that when the bulbs fail by way of an internal short, wiring doesn’t catch fire. Fair enough, the circuit board strip burns out but to my way of thinking it is a poor design which could easily be solved by having a low current fuse somewhere in the assembly. If I ever move I will be checking any future-owned hood for this set-up, and if necessary at least fit an in-line 3 amp fuse in the light feed.
FWIW
Pete
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