IDW450

[dave-m]

Hey all, need help here,

I’ve just looked at a belling IDW 450 integrated slimline d/w which had been working intermittently, it would stop working and beep constantly then they’d leave it for a couple of weeks and then turn it on – hey presto, it would work. Eventually it stopped working for good with no beeps. It could be turned on but the programme select button does nothing.
I took it out and found the base full of water and a possible leak from the pump, dried it/repaired the pump and tried it again but it’s still doing the same thing. it can be turned on but a programme can’t be selected.
I also have a service manual which covers the IDW603/450 etc, but the diagnostic mode requires a digital display which this model doesn’t have. (it only has on on/off button and programme select button) and the manual doesn’t describe a reset of any sorts.
I’m beginning to think that the board is goosed but i cant figure why.
Does anyone know of a reset for this m/c or am I missing something??

Cheers

D

[dave-m]

Re: IDW450

Anyone any idea bout this,

The above problem I couldn’t get sorted as I had ordered a board and twice I got the wrong one and the customer got bored waiting and bought a new m/c.

However i now have the same problem. It leaked into the base and now, with the base cleaned out, it does nothing other than turn on. I can’t get it into diagnostics mode and the programme button does nothing.

any ideas?

Cheers

d

[dave-m]

Re: IDW450

In case it helps,
The above m/c is the same as;
NEW WORLD DW 60,PRIMA LXP 600/LPR 450,STOVES 600 DW/450 DW

d

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

Dave, did you ever find out what was wrong with this one as I’ll probably be going to look at one with similar fault symptoms later this week. Would be handy to borrow that service manual too!
Mike.

[dave-m]

Re: IDW450

Mike, It was the main wash motor, when i removed it i saw a bit of water damage, the customer wouldn’t go ahead with repair (on my advice). But curiosity got the better of me and i bought a new one, as i was starting to have second thoughts, but hey presto it worked.
I stripped the m/c and kept all the parts and since then I’ve only seen one with a similar problem (have done others with usual heater micro sw. problems or gunked up pressure sw. lines) but this time the leak into the base took out the motor and the board!
And i still couldn’t get them to agree to pay the motor price and i’d give the board for free! although i’m not too unhappy coz I don’t even know how long the second hand board would have lasted, i should really throw it out and take the temptation to use it away!, really the only permanent fix for a leak to the base with this type of m/c is bin it!
So, now that I’ve cheered you up, pm me and I’ll send you the manual…..

Dave

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

Thanks Dave. Message is in my outbox.
Mike.

[dave-m]

Re: IDW450

Done Mike.

I should add as a caveat that most of the m/c’s which have been ber due to leaks were fitted by one kitchen company and they seem to have been routinely abused during install.
For a start, all of them had 1 1/2″ screws (3 or 4 of them) driven through from the kitchen presses into the side panel of the m/c, high enough to not pierce the tub but very brutal all the same. I can only assume they thought it easier than using the adjustable feet!!
They were also pretty badly bashed on the front and the integrated door was just fitted by driving screws straight throughout the door frame.
Whether this has an effect on the snags i’ve seen, I don’t know, but it can’t have helped!
I once took well over an hour getting one out as the screws driven through on one side had there heads covered by the side of a sink that was fitted afterwards and under a marble worktop, It took hacksaw blades and all manner of gunthering to remove that one which I’m sure the m/c doesn’t like at all!!
Now when i get a call about one of these yokes i ask who fitted it before i go out, lesson learned.

Dave

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

Thanks Dave, Some very useful stuff there and I have hardly begun to read it yet.
I seem to remember a thread entitled something like, “Worst kitchen installations.” Your last post deserves to be in there!
Mike.

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

Went to this one last Saturday. IDW603 this one is. Couldn’t get it to perform diagnostic cycle the way it’s supposed to. Did get the E1 and it seemed to be overfilling and draining simultaneously so I went to look for the alleged flow meter but could not find it 😕 . Don’t think it has one, just a 2-level p/sw. Blew into p/sw and got two clicks so went to look at board. Nothing visible so brought it away with me and tested at home. No shorted triacs but the 0.22uF rectangular cap was reading 0.056uF in circuit. Desoldered and it read 0.11uF so I’ve ordered a new one of those. Only 50p ea but have to buy ten so will have 9 spare if anyone reading this ever needs one 😀 . (Better than £200 SRP for a board.) Confident that this will be fixed in a few days time.
Would never have thought to look at that cap had it not been for Electrofix Dave’s posts in the sticky :tright: .
Mike.

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

leavemetogetonwithit wrote:Confident that this will be fixed in a few days time.

What’s the most stupid thing repairmen write …?
🙁
Didn’t go back with repaired board till Saturday as I had toothache and didn’t feel like it. (Part of the wonders of self-underemployment.)
Stuck board back in. Gave it a run and things seemed to be a little better but soon discovered it was still doing the same bad stuff. Thought for a moment it might need a re-set but I really don’t think so. Coming up with E1 which is supposed to mean no fill but what it is doing in fact is trying to over-fill and then level 2 on p/sw is kicking in and draining whilst filling continues.
By chance I discovered the elusive flow-meter under my nose.

It’s got 3 wires going to it ( white black red) and I am not sure how to test it but it is a strong suspect. Comes as valve complete £36 SRP @ Connect and not much less trade so…. if anybody knows how to test this thing??? It seems to be a bit difficult to extract despite the plastic clip apparently holding it in.
Reed switches usually only have two wires don’t they? So this may be something different. 😕
Proviso: faulty flow meter is supposed to bring up E4 but hey we all know how trustworthy error codes are!
Mike.

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

In an idle moment decided to delve a little deeper into this and drilled out the retaining plastic dowels to reveal this:
Anybody know what the component buried in there might be?
Then this on removing inlet filter. There’s an impellor behind the vortex and it spins freely when I blow gently into it. So the thing presumably works on the usual principle.

Resistances between the 3 wires are all infinty.
Mike.

[Hollytree_Technical]

Re: IDW450

It is probably a “Hall Effect Sensor”, try giving it 3 volts DC between the red and black wires then with the meter across White and Black wires pass a magnet across it and the output should go fro either low to high or high to low, if you get nothing then try upping it to 5V input as the next step (most only want 3.5V as maximum though they can be rated for up to 12V).

Jem

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

Thanks Jem. With 3v going in I’m getting a 2mV change in DC out. With 5v in I’m getting 4mv change.
Does that suggest the Hall Effect Sensor’s OK?
Mike.

[Hollytree_Technical]

Re: IDW450

It makes me think that either the magnet is too weak or there isn’t really enough of a voltage swing there, they usually have a CMOS switch on the output to make it swing between the 2 voltage rails….. unless it is one that is designed to sink current in which case stick a resistor (Something like 1K but anything round there would do) between the white and red wires then repeat the test.

Jem

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: IDW450

Hollytree_Technical wrote: stick a resistor (Something like 1K but anything round there would do) between the white and red wires then repeat the test.

Jem
OK. Now I get about 5 volts reducing to zero on a pass of the magnet.
So HES is OK, right?
Mike.
Works at 3v too.
And using the impellor and blowing hard into the vortex with a straw, I get a 0.5v deflection.

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