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Pigpen4.
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July 1, 2010 at 1:05 pm #55575
Pigpen4
ParticipantWent out earlier in the week to this d/w, which had been sitting unused for a couple of years, but she wants to get it going again now.
Signs of a big leak underneath, but nothing obvious where it came from – no split pipes or anything.On powering up it did one of two things (I powered it up a few times):-
1. there was a beeping and the start button was flashing constantly with no discernable pattern – presumably an F1 fault, but the NTC measures 64.6kohm (probably a bit too high, having read other threads on this, so I’ll try replacing it anyway).2. there was a solid beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep and the 3rd and 4th wash program lights alternately flashed, with no flashing from the start button.
Assuming that there may have been flooding of the main control module which has caused this 2nd of the above two, I ordered a replacement, which I have fitted this morning. With the replacement control module fitted, there is nothing at all going on with the User Board – no lights, no selection possible, no beeps, nothing. It ran through one wash cycle on its own, that was uncancellable, then just sat there, smirking at me! I’ve checked the connections from the user board all the way back to the control board and they are all spot on. I’ve tightened the connectors up. Still no difference.
I put the original control board back in and got the original symptoms, with apparent full functionality of the user board.
Q. – Is the replacement board duff or am I supposed to program it in some way? There were no instructions with it, so I assumed it would be a 1 for 1 swap.
I found the source of the leak along the way, though, which is coming from the seal where the salt dispenser meets the tub – out of stock at both Connect and MasterPart!
July 1, 2010 at 1:34 pm #324361johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
Have you got the 12nc number for the machine and the part number for the ccu you fitted.
Some of these machines have blank ccu available so it could be you have fitted one of these.John
July 1, 2010 at 2:34 pm #324362Pigpen4
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
Control board is WHP481221478282
Don’t have number for machine and the owner (15 miles away) can’t see any other numbers.
I bet I’ve got the wrong board, haven’t I? Didn’t realise they differed!
I’ll wait till the NTC comes in before I go back to get the machine number.Lesson learnt – get the 12 digit number every time!!
July 1, 2010 at 4:28 pm #324363johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
The ccu you fitted is only used on 12nc 854534715410 Looking on SIOS I see that thee is 7 different versions of this dishwasher, 5 of them have the control board in the top of the door and two have it fitted in the base. According to the part number you have fitted you have one of the models with the ccu in the base. The other version that has the ccu in the base 854534715710 which has a ccu part number 481221478761
And yes you are right, you always need a 12nc on any Whirlpool appliance especialy when you need electronics.
JohnJuly 1, 2010 at 6:48 pm #324364Pigpen4
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
Thanks, John.
Looks like I’ve got a 50{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} chance of getting it wrong, then, as it is a bottom mounted board.
Do either of the bottom mounters (ooh er, missus!) need programming, or should they both come already programmed?
And does my original fault sound like a control board change to you?
Thanks,
Paul.July 2, 2010 at 8:50 pm #324365johnmac11
ParticipantRe: Ignis D/W ADL347 replacement control module
Hi Paul,
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I have been without broadband for a day and a half, god loves nthell……
IIRC the bottom boards dont need programming, an easy way to tell is in the description of the board, if it says “sam” or “basic” anywhere in the description it is a blank board.Regarding whether the board is faulty or not is another thing, in cases like this the only way to be sure is to check the resistance reading of everything and if all is fine it must be the board.
John
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