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Mike_Javelin.
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AuthorPosts
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March 28, 2007 at 6:39 pm #170439
Penguin45
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
AEG/Zanussi/Tricity Bendix/Electrolux – all the same machines……..
Penguin45.
March 29, 2007 at 6:27 pm #170440fredwarwick
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Thank you all for your advice, i have risked the solder repair and at the moment have success!
Thanks again
fred
April 11, 2007 at 1:53 pm #170441Quilliam
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Many thanks to you all for the advice in this thread. I have an AEG Favorit 44070i about two years old that has the same burnt out PCB problem. Going to try solder it and see if that works…
June 4, 2007 at 12:27 pm #170442gav425
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Thanks to this thread I have just repaired my AEG 40640. It was not heating up and had the same dry joint on the PCB inside the door.
Thank you very much.
gav425October 30, 2007 at 12:34 pm #170443pkbibby
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Hi, firstly as a newbe, many thanks to everyone posted to this topic, its such a godsend! I have the same issue with an 18 month old Zanussi DE540X (has anyone heared of this code?). Following this discussion managed to take a look at PCB and sure enough burnt out joint. The only issue at moment is that I cant release one of the wire connctors (has blue, lilac & orange cables) to get the PCB out of machine for repair or renew, can anyone help?
Best Regards
BibzOctober 30, 2007 at 3:51 pm #170444iadom
ModeratorRe: in-line heater test?
You need to be very careful with this connector, prising it off with long nosed pliers can sometimes shift it. It is so difficult to remove that the newer PCB units usually come complete with new terminal tags to replace the old one.
As you have already found out, nigh on impossible on the odd one without damaging the board.Careful perseverance is the order of the day.
Jim.
October 31, 2007 at 11:03 am #170445pkbibby
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Thanks for the advice Jim, hear what you say so decided to solder joint without taking the connector off. Hey Presto! dishwasher running fine now. Saved me £100 or even £300 if as probably lots of people just replace their machine.
Many thanks once again to everyone
Bibz 😀November 26, 2007 at 11:22 am #170446norm888
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Hi
Now the AEG is about 3 years old it went to the tip yesterday. Many other faults apart from not heating till you soldered the joint etc.
If that was a car I suppose there would be a recall, still cars cost a lot more. No more AEG, or the other names, you can buy this lump of CR** from.
December 10, 2007 at 9:00 pm #170447BaryGates
Participant6 months ago replaced the relay and it gave up last night.
Fitted a new relay and still stone cold.
New dishwasher on the way.
January 11, 2008 at 12:30 am #170448leeroypenmut
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
I resoldered the dry joint on my zanussi dishwasher a few month ago
Tonight it stoped heating the water again, could it be the relay?
where can i get the relay from and what sort of price?
if not the relay what can it be?
Thanks
January 11, 2008 at 1:06 am #170449Penguin45
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Relay failure. PCB failure. Heater failure. Water matrix failure. All possible……
Relay is not a manufacturers spare part, although it is a generic electronic component available from the likes of Maplins or Radio Spares if you are dilligent in your searching.
Penguin45.
January 13, 2008 at 11:29 am #170450leeroypenmut
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
I searched for a relay is this the right one
and cant find it in maplin
how can i test?
thanks
February 9, 2008 at 2:48 pm #170451Ralph2
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
This is a great thread and saved me a lot of time looking for the fault in my Zanussi dishwasher. No Leeroypenmut, that relay is not the right pattern, you want something like this: http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/Components+& … ku=SW02620
But I am here to tell you that the reason these boards are failing is because the relay is underspecified. The unit fitted is rated at 10A 125V. This is derated to 6A at 277V. So at a nominal 240V it will carry about 7A. The 2KW heater will draw about 8A. All these figures are approximate I know, but however you calculate things the relay is running constantly at (or slightly over) it’s max rating.
As a minimum this application requires a relay that will pass a true 10A at 240V. The consequence of long term running at max rating is overheating, and tarnishing/pitting of the contacts when the relay activates. This creates a high resistance across the contacts which itself creates large amounts of heat. So much heat that it melts the solder on the PCB. the way the contacts are designed in a relay means one ‘leg’ of the contacts is almost always shorter than the other. Due to the shorter heat path and less metal to ‘soak’ the heat, this leg will always melt the solder first. This is the situation we have here. As the relay is now effectively ‘shot’, resoldering the joint will only be a temporary fix. I took a photo of my old dissasembled relay to show the contact damage, but can’t figure how to post images on this forum, sorry.
We can only guess this is a result of commercial pressure. No electrical design engineer would deliberately underspecify such a key component. I have not found a relay of this size that will handle the current, so a bigger relay would have meant an offboard component or board redesign, neither of which were deemed acceptable by the beancounters. Pure speculation, but at least the answer is simple. Solder in a new £1 relay and you should get another year to 18 months out of the old girl. I don’t like to think of the number of otherwise servicable machines that have been junked because of this. Not an ecologically friendly descision of the (alleged) beancounter.. 🙁
My thanks again to all who contributed to this thread. Nice work.
February 10, 2008 at 7:59 pm #170452dazza29
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
what you said makes perfect sense, and with that in mind and the comments from everyone else regarding the soldered joints, I too have re-soldered the relay on the PCB and hey presto, I now have a working dishwasher. Don’t be frightened to tackle this job, I’m a complete novice and had to borrow a soldering iron, but half hour later I’m Mr Fix IT!!! 😀
July 24, 2008 at 2:56 pm #170453Coastergirl
ParticipantRe: in-line heater test?
Hi all,
Have read through this thread with great interest. I too have a stupid dishwasher that is currently misbehaving more than my 2 year old son… It won’t heat the water! I have replaced the heater element, to no avail so am now going to try this re-solder. I am a little concerned however, about the fire risk involved – the dishwasher is an integrated Electrolux ESL6115, purchased June 2006. How significant is this fire risk? What do I have to do avoid that risk? Buy a new relay or buy a new PCB?
Thanks in advance
Rachel -
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