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The above Fridge Freezer has recently started running too warm. It hadn’t been knocked/disturbed which from your FAQ section would need to have happened to cause a pipe blockage. The larger fridge section is at room temperature, no hint of cooling even on the back wall. The smaller freezer below (which unlike the fridge is frost free) is about 0 to 2 C, more like a fridge.
This upper fridge walls have always made the odd gurgling noise, but since the fault has sounded like constantly running water. There’s no water connection, before anyone asks. I’ve put the electronic thermostat into engineer test modes and all seems OK, I can start & stop the single compressor that way. Tried setting to coldest. Thermistor resistance is correct for 20 C, i.e. it knows it’s too warm. Occasionally in test mode the compressor doesn’t start and clicks, making me wonder about a partial fault e.g. capacitor.
I’ve since had the whole machine out, dusted it although pretty clean. Checked the running capacitor with an ohmmeter only, which behaves as it should but this isn’t a total test as at low voltage and doesn’t confirm uF capacity. The coils to the rear do not feel warm, i.e. too little compression? The compressor runs 24/7, suggesting thermostat is calling for heat as too warm. The power usage appears only 100w, again less that the quoted 230w. Fan into freezer runs normally, no signs of heavy icing/leaking.
So it’s running with too little power/cooling for freezer and nothing at all left for fridge. How credible is it that an ageing capacitor could be causing it to run, but under power? I have one on order (4uF) but am unsure if this is a false hope?
Any way to confirm? i.e. would I be able to find a winding open circuit? Not sure if I should wait for capacitor, so prolonging the domestic inconvenience, or just write it off now and replace. I realise there’s not many economically practical repairs especially for a DIYer.
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