Home › Forums › Public Support Forums › Help And Support › Cooker And Oven Forum › Lamona LAM2702 Hood/Extractor Dead/No Power
- This topic has 7 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 4 months ago by
_Neil.
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November 30, 2022 at 8:56 pm #101421
_Neil
ParticipantAs per title Lamona LAM2702 Hood/Extractor has stopped working/has no power.
No lights, no fan, nothing. I will try to cover as much detail, without being too verbose.iirc everything stopped at once (i.e. no failing lights or anything first)
I have established that the power supply is good: wall fuse fine, internal fuse on PCB good and voltage readings at primary transformer contacts.
There is a separate PCB controller board mounted at the top of the unit and switch panel mounted lower on the hood
Physical examination of both PCB and switch unit shows no obvious signs of damage e.g. burnt out tracks, broken tracks, bad solder joints.
I have not disassembled the fan and tested that in isolation, mainly as there seems to be no power to anything.
I do not have the equipment or “know how” to do further analysis of the PCB control board.
iirc a replacement PCB is circa £100, so a bit much to “gamble” on without and obvious indication that is the problem.
Appreciate this is not details, just wondered if anyone else had experience/heard of similar.
Thanks in advance for any comments/ideas,
Neil.
November 30, 2022 at 9:56 pm #484666electrofix
Moderatorno but if you can post some clear pics of the boards i will look at it
you will have to host offsite and post public links as there is a 2meg limit on here
Dave
December 1, 2022 at 7:41 am #484667kwatt
KeymasterIt’s this one Dave, it looks like everything is routed through it:
https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/49033045-cooker-hood-control-module
K.
December 1, 2022 at 9:44 am #484668electrofix
Moderatorwell i would say the power supply on the board has very likely gone faulty
I would say concentrate on the components at the top right of the picture. measure any big resistors with low values and see if any are blown. the ones we are interested in are normally valued at 100 ohms or less
if you search resistor colour codes from google you will find how to read them
Dave
December 5, 2022 at 6:50 pm #484669_Neil
ParticipantSorry about the delayed response (had other things going on that prevented me checking in as soon as I would have liked).
Thanks [USER=”2″]kwatt[/USER] that does look like (from memory) the one for this model.
Thanks [USER=”4209″]electrofix[/USER]for the info re off-site picture hosting, useful to know. Also thanks for the resistor check hint. I do have a multimeter,so should be able to do that. Resistor colour codes takes me back longer than I care to remember :0/
December 8, 2022 at 5:23 pm #484670_Neil
Participant[USER=”4209″]electrofix[/USER] Been a long time since I’ve done this, but assuming I am doing it right, it does look like a few of the lower value resistors have gone. They are reading as open circuit.
I suppose I could try to find all the faulty resistors and replace, however I assume it is unlikely that just a resistor has gone and that I would be better replacing the whole unit. The date on the sticker is 2015, so don’t know what the normal life time of one of these is.
Will mull it over and might gamble on a new PCB.
Thanks,
Neil.
December 8, 2022 at 7:43 pm #484671electrofix
Moderatorif the resistors have gone. its normally only one low value one that acts as a fuse and to stop high currents. this feeds a chip often with 7 legs and that will be the cause of the problem
change the chip and the dud resistor and it could be okDave
December 14, 2022 at 5:10 pm #484672_Neil
Participant[USER=”4209″]electrofix[/USER] ahh, ok I’ll take a look at that. Thanks.
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