LG F1403RD Washer/Dryer saga. Advice needed.

[norman2016]

LG F1403RD Washer/Dryer saga.

For completeness I’ve included the recent history.

The initial problem was the door failing to lock, with a dE error, when starting a cycle after just completing a previous one. After about 10-20mins rest the door would successfully lock again.

Is seemed like a a new door lock was required. The door seal was looking very tired, so as it must be disturbed when fitting the door lock, I decided to change it at the same time.

The door lock and seal replacement was straight forward (including some swearing). The door lock now working normally. As an initial test I ran the machine using ‘Load Test Mode’ (press ‘Left Option’ and ‘Rinse’ then press Power button).

I stepped slowly through test modes and the all performed as expected, including filling with water at the correct steps.

Looking to confirm water integrity, I then commenced the ‘Tub Clean’ program to try to provoke water leaks. This started off as expected but overfilled, resulting in an FE error. I switched it off with the Power button but the pre-wash inlet valve continued to fill the drum. I turned the water off using the external tap and emptied the drum using drain (Spin with no spin) program.

I could see no leaks from the new door seal but spotted some extra water in the base tray at the back of the machine. On removing the rear panel I spotted corrosion around the heater element terminals with water seeping out. I opted to delay further testing until a new heater element had been fitted.

Further tests after the new heater element had been fitted revealed:

1. On any program the drum starts filling, via the pre-wash inlet valve, as soon the ‘Start’ button pressed (after any program is selected but i didn’t test the dryer modes!).

2. Although the pre-wash inlet valve does not close when the Stop button is pressed it does close if/when the door unlocks (even though the drum is half full!!) or when the power is turned off at the wall.

3. If the connectors are removed from the pre-wash inlet valve. Programs start as normal and begin filling from the main inlet valve. However although the water level looks OK, viewing through the door, the programs fails after a few minutes with IE error.

This seemed like a pressure switch problem or air chamber blockage.

I removed the pipe from the pressure switch and blew into it. This produced the sound of bubbles from inside the drum. I understand this eliminates the air chamber,

So it appears to be a pressure switch failure but I don’t understand how this could cause the pre-wash inlet valve issue. The pressure meters out OK (21 ohms) but it is original fittment. Maybe the diaphram has failed.

If it’s not the pressure switch I understand it could be the ‘Main PCB’.

I’m going to try a new pressure switch first and if that doesn’t work a new ‘Main PCB’.

My questions/concerns are:
1. I’m not clear on how hard I should need to blow into the pressure switch pipe. It seems to me that I need to blow harder than expected to produce bubbles. Would be wise to disassemble the pipe and air chamber to take a closer look?
2. I can’t see how to remove the ‘Main PCB’. The service manual indicates there is a screw to remove to the left (from the rear) of the ‘Main PCB’ but I can’t see it.

All comments welcome.

Norman

[electrofix]

Re: LG F1403RD Washer/Dryer saga. Advice needed.

from what you are saying the valve starts to fill the machine as soon as you turn it on before you have set any programme is that correct ?

will it do this with the door open and unlocked ?

Dave

[norman2016]

Re: LG F1403RD Washer/Dryer saga. Advice needed.

No. It starts to fill as soon as the start/pause button is pressed with the door shut. It doesn’t make any difference which wash program is selected.
Just pressing the power button does its usual thing, just lights the display up.
Norman.

[electrofix]

Re: LG F1403RD Washer/Dryer saga. Advice needed.

its not a pressure switch problem sounds more like a board fault and the boards on these machines a filled with resin so no repairs possible so it would be a new one

cant be certain I am right though but there is no reason the valve would not turn off when the stop button is pressed unless it is sticking. to find that out you would have to see if the power is removed from the valve when you press stop or when you turn is off on the wall does it stop straight away if yes valve ok

Dave

[norman2016]

Re: LG F1403RD Washer/Dryer saga. Advice needed.

Thanks Dave. It stops immediately when turned off at the wall. So it’s likely the ‘Main PCB’. I now need to consider the cost of a new PCB (~£120) against the age/reliability of the washer/dryer (purchased in 2010) and the cost of a new machine.

Norman

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