Home › Forums › Public Support Forums › Help And Support › Fridge And Freezer Forum › Miele KT fridge freezer keeps stop-starting every 30 secs. Wont remain on. Not cool.
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NickLondon.
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January 31, 2021 at 3:31 pm #99062
NickLondon
ParticipantHi all,
My Miele KT 3422 Sed Fridge Freezer has, since Friday, been operating oddly and is not at all cool. Can you offer advice on what to do please?
Normally it switches on, stays on (whirring, making its normal noises) and then switches off – and it stays on for around 20 or 30 minutes at a time, at intervals through the day. Since Friday it switches on and then stays on for only 30 seconds, or 20 seconds and switches off with a stutter/shuddering noise – which is louder than when it normally worked properly.
Read the manual, defrosted the freezer completely (I have to admit we hadnt defrosted it for a long time and so a lot of ice, 2 inches deep in some places on sides and roof, had built up, but we had reduced it in previous weeks). Kept it off from the mains and switched it on again. Was given same advice by Miele customer support on a call we made to them. Has not done the trick. Continues to stop start. Freezer compartment has cooled – but nowhere near as normal, it is almost as cold as what the fridge section should normally be like. Meanwhile, fridge is room temperature. When touch ceiling of fridge (fridge at bottom, freezer on top) it feels warm. Turned the temperature setting dial up (0 to 7, and 7 is coldest) – increased from 4 to 6, but still no change. The ‘winter setting’ I noticed does not seem to do anything also (when switched it on, the light doesnt switch on so I am guessing it is not working (or just the bulb has gone)).
When it switches off, the stuttering sound is almost as if someone has suddenly put the breaks on. Almost seems as if it cannot ‘get into gear’ and remain switched on for the normal 20, 30 or 40 etc minutes like it used to. Only now have wondered whether any of this may have been related to what we saw some weeks ago when, in the fridge, on fridge floor, there was every few days water, which was on the floor level (and not on the shelf just above it where the condensant channel is). Yesterday, after this fault, I poked a straw into the condensant drain in case there is a blockage, but it came up dry, and I have no idea how hard to push it down – dont want to break anything.
I have read some entries here and tried to learn how this machine works and I don’t really know what to do. Cannot afford the Miele call out and so some advice would be really appreciated please.
January 31, 2021 at 4:27 pm #474894Luggsey
ParticipantShuddering sounds mechanical?
It may be a compressor fault or possibly a bad electrical connection/switching fault.
It will need an expert to have a look imho.January 31, 2021 at 10:25 pm #474895NickLondon
ParticipantIt sounds like an abrupt stop. Used to do a similar noise for many years, its just louder and more noticeable now.
Why would Miele customer support say that that sort of noise is normal and it will still be resolved just by defrosting?
January 31, 2021 at 11:43 pm #474896Tony R
ParticipantIf the compressor is not running once powered on and runs or hums for a few seconds and cuts out, then I suspect it is cutting out on the thermal overload ( klixon ) this device is triggered when the compressor or relay is faulty. Only fitting a new relay or an Engineer testing the compressor will determine which is at fault.
February 1, 2021 at 12:00 am #474897Tony R
ParticipantHaving checked the parts list, although you did not post your index number, I suspect it will be a 164 version ( UK ) they produced 5 versions of your model in that index range from 2000 to 2001. The early versions have a Zanussi compressor fitted HQY 12AA and from 2001 an Aspera NBM 1116Y compressor, it may be worth locating the relay for which version of compressor you have from this site than paying the excessive price from Miele, purely for test purposes if it still does not work, all you have lost is the cost of the relay, as replacing the compressor is costly and should only be done by a qualified Engineer, ALWAYS REMOVE THE POWER when testing or replacing electrical parts.
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