my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

[gandh1]

ok so it had to happen sometime, been seeing the occasional LG w/m pcb failure pop up on here, but other than assuming all is not fixable due to the laquer i havent paid much attention. had a quick search but nothing comes up :s

however, have a pcb from a wm14225td where the clip in fuse is burnt out.

not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} if its related but the 330uf cap looks to have got warm as its crisped up the laquer as if a hot ai bubble had tried to get out.

any clues? machine stopped mid cyle thru a hot wash, heater element was assumed to have gone, but checks out ok. are these elements like lux w/d dryer elements prone to going out of insulation parameters ???

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

That’s a coincidence! Have got same model with same cap popped. Fuse looks OK but all was dead on display, no one at home when on/off pressed.
Have just received new cap from RS. (Took one night to get to Plymouth and two days for the Parcelforce sub-contractor to not deliver it to my address and yet get a signature! Then magically it turned up through my door today :hmm: )
The original cap was a Sanwha 85 deg. I was thinking of upgrading it to a 105 deg but then thought 2000 hrs mean life would be sufficient and should get it through another 5 years hard labour before the machine needs new bearings, pump etc.
Pretty sure this will work OK; think it’s just that the original cap had done its expected lifetime. (Apparently may have popped trip as they had an otherwise unexplained incidence recently.)
The jelly gets out of the way when you poke it with a soldering iron and gives off quite a pleasant smell! Stanley knife gets you through the plastic at the back then it’s easy enough to de-solder the cap. Watch out not to hit the little diodes nearby on the component side.
Mike.

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

Soldered in the cap then thought I’d better check the fuse. Turned out to be blown despite appearing perfect. Just managed to dig out enough of it to identify. 8 amps. I think the blobs along the length of its wire would indicate it’s a slow blow type. Can anyone confirm that?
I’m going to continue digging and see if I can gain more insight from the markings on the ends. This is more difficult than the capacitor was to dig out because it’s right at the edge of the board and difficult to get behind it. And it’s a soldered in type. 😡
Mike.

[shaun67]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

usually a slow blow will have the fuse wire that looks like a coil if i am not mistaken so it could be if the fuse has blobs as you say.Sorry cannot add any more .

Shaun

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

Thanks Shaun. Yes, I know there are various types many of which I have in my boxes. I’ve now got both end caps out and can find no clues so will go with fast blow for now (have 7.5A in stock) and if that fails I’ll just have to order some new fuses. 🙁 Going to solder in an in-line fuse holder to make it a bit easier.
Mike.

[gandh1]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

mike any reason why the cap blew, or is it just co-incidence that our customer w/m wasnt heating

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

Oh well, ho hum. Ghand1 I would stop there if I were you. Don’t waste any more of your time. 🙁
After re-installing the board I got dE which is door error according to instruction book. Pulled out door lock – looked similar to a Merloni one.
Opened it up to find out how to bridge it. Inside looked OK, though coming due for replacement. Dismantled it and cleaned up all contacts. Got 745 ohms across L / N on lock which should be fine. Re-installed, still got dE. Bridged it across L – C and leaving ptc in circuit in case it was measuring that somehow. Still dE. Tested voltage to lock between L & N and it was only getting 145 volts. Checked all connections to board, all tight. Tried diagnostics but couldn’t get past first base where all lights light up. Next press of start pause was dE again.
Gave up there. £125 for new board, customer was not interested in that option and I very much doubt they’d have been interested at £75.
Brought away both boards so if anybody wants to buy a probably OK fascia board cheap then get in touch. Also for sale are two 450v 330uf caps one of which has had 20mins use, and the other still hasn’t arrived yet.
Mike.

[gandh1]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

oh but i do like a fiddle 🙂 especially if i put our loan machine in and have this in the workshop over the new year

how much are the caps worth out of interest ??? im hoping its just the element thats caused the cap blowout

[leavemetogetonwithit]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

Hi Ghand1, the caps I bought were £8.57 ea incl. vat. Delivery was included as I have an account with them. There are similar ones for about £6.50 incl. but they were out of stock.
I’m pretty sure it has nothing to do with the element but I’ll be pretty p’d off if you go and prove me wrong 😆 . The caps are specified to have a mean life of 2000 hours and this customer of mine admitted she used it every day of it’s five years of labour and also that she tended to do two or three small loads rather than one big one ’cause it was quicker. ❗ Working that out comes to about 2000 hours. There’s no need to look further, although obviously something else has gone down somewhere, on my board, I think. Would you like the board I’ve repaired, complete with new cap and fuse in holder for £15 incl P&P? You can return it for a refund if all you get is dE. The chances of my ever doing any more with it are slim. This was the first dead LG board I had ever seen.
Mike.

[gandh1]

Re: my first lg… pcb popped wm14225td

you think your handiwork is worht £15 ?! 😛

ill be speaking to cust over weekend. keep you posted brah 🙂

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