Neff dishwasher is so old, no on-line parts supplier can even identify it!

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  • #476183
    2Tricky
    Participant

    electrofix wrote:i would have inspected this diaphragm for splits etc

    Dave

    Dave I inspected it pretty well I think, under a magnifiying glass and could see nothing. Would you have removed it from the assembly completely for inspection? As mentioned before, my unit hums when activated and if this doesn’t open the valve, knocking it with a screwdriver handle opens it.

    #476184
    electrofix
    Moderator

    is the rubber on the end of the plunger sticky ?

    Dave

    #476185
    2Tricky
    Participant

    electrofix wrote:is the rubber on the end of the plunger sticky ?

    Dave

    That seems like a really good question and it hadn’t occured to me. I have no idea, but didn’t look sticky (if sticky has a look). As the unit is back in one piece, maybe I’ll try it in situ as it is, as the plunger will have been rotated to a new position after handling. Otherwise it sounds as though it’s worth looking at.

    Thanks for the idea 🙂

    Update:
    It’s two months later and so I thought it time I reported in…

    The plunger wasn’t sticky, but whilst it was apart I sprayed silicone onto any plunger contact surfaces. Reassembly saw me turning the solenoid 90 degrees – just to change any surfaces that had contact. The result was that the machine now had the opportunity to display another malfunction that had blended with the value issue – the soap tray didn’t always open and this froze the progress of the timer. I took the door apart and oiled the mechanism that opens the door latch (I didn’t have grease) and tried again. It worked flawlessly for several washes, until one hot day, the valve wouldn’t work again, even with sustained tapping with a screwdriver’s handle. However, I happened to open a mains pressure tap near to the washer and immediately the valve opened and the dishwasher completing the cycle.

    So, if I have one question, I’m wondering whether this shines any light on which part of the valve might be at fault. I’m thinking that maybe it wasn’t simply because of the jarring nature of the tapping, but to do with pressures briefly shifting inside the valve maybe?

    Any thoughts very welcome please.

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