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DIYdisaster.
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December 28, 2018 at 2:06 pm #95203
DIYdisaster
ParticipantHiya,
Just hoping for a bit of advice. We have an elderly (I’d guess about 14 years old) Neff W5320X0GB integrated washing machine.
Though it washes well when it works it sometimes aborts the cycle (the washing powder is used but not the conditioner).
All the cotton programmes fail and we were using the synthetic programmes. However these are now also failing more frequently.
The machine simply stops and the “Ready” light comes on. We normally just do a rinse (which works) as the clothes seem to have been washed OK.Any idea as to what this might be? Is it worth repairing?
All advice gratefully received.
Many thanks in advance for your time and trouble, it’s appreciated.
December 30, 2018 at 8:58 am #459690andyjawa
ParticipantNot an easy one this! Aborting the cycle. Could be a leak since your model has a base and float detecting system fitted, so remove the rear cover or since this thing is built in remove the front plastic plinth is easier and shine a torch to see if any basal water as this is very common on the base pan underneath the machine. OTHER THINGS .When it does this is the door still locked? After 5 minutes of it being ” aborted ” can the door be opened? It is possible that the door interlock is failing, part number 00603521 at about 30 quid. Of course it is also possible the circuit board input power chip is failing which is bad news. £245 and probably, if truth is known, obsolete.
Things that fail at circ 14 years old: motor brush failure: total failure = no drum action ( no tumbling and no spin though the machine still pumps out ), a boarder line fail could mean the machine also aborts the programme but the drum still goes around. The rear panel on these machines allow you loads of room to remove the motor to have a look at the carbon motor brushes of which there are 2 types fitted depending upon which motor you ended up with there are the very common 00154740 brushes which as a pattern part is very cheap or the FHP made motor brushes part 00173028 which are much more expensive; could be either more likely to be the former.
Beware of chasing the ” repair ” on these machines at this age as anything is possible. Go have a look first and see if the machine is leaking on its metal base before touching / buying anything whether a spare or, God forbid a new machine- try to avoid the latter if you can!! If you find you have a leak check the door seal first at smack on 6 o/clock position very common they put a small hole in the flange, if you find a multitude of tears your suspension is shot where the machine has bounced about too much allowing the door seal to rub on the concrete front weight.
Any tatting about remember to turn the power of before you do!!!January 9, 2019 at 5:09 pm #459691DIYdisaster
ParticipantHere’s an update/additional detail in response to the much appreciated advice.
The water heats up – the front door feels warm when the wash cycle is on.
No obvious sign of leaks or dampness under the machine.
Not sure if door unlocks after 5+ minutes of inactivity but I doubt it because the machine doesn’t drain so we have to run a rinse+spin or spin cycle to empty it (this always works fine).
Bottom of door seal (6 o’clock) looks fine – no significant signs of rusting, damage or wear and tear.
Other details: the cotton cycle *always* “hangs” so we use the synthetic (easy care) 40/60 cycles for everything. However the synthetic behaviour is similar to cotton in the early stages of failure. So I’m expecting these programmes to give up eventually as well…The machine has several lights that illuminate in sequence: Ready/Wash/Rinse/Spin/End. Only one is lit up at any time.
It hangs/fails during “Wash” and reverts to “Ready” – i.e. as if it never started. The washing powder tray is empty but the fabric conditioner isn’t used (as expected).Also, despite my attempts to properly level/stabilise the thing it often bounces around quite a bit during the spin cycle so that might be a factor?
Basically, if anyone can narror down the likely cause to something that’s economic to repair I’ll call an engineer. Otherwise, we do have a spare cheapo machine in the garage but it’s a standalone unit so won’t (I guess) fit into an integrated space – though if the exterior cladding comes off I guess it might…
As ever, all advice/comments gratefully received, many thanks in advance for your time and trouble!
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