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This – fairly old, pre-digital – dishwasher has worked well for years. It has just ceased to heat the water. I don’t have a user-manual or repair manual. How can I access, and check, the heater element?
The detailed symptoms are that the rotary control knob (which normally clicks round as the cycle progresses) stops about 3-5 minutes in. If it is manually clicked onward, the cycle continues and usually completes. But it is obvious when opening the dishwasher that the water which is pumped through, and drained, has been totally cold.
I presume that this means the heater element, or a fuse or whatever controls it, is faulty – and because the temperature/thermostat doesn’t signal that the water is hot enough, the rotary control stops at that point. Am I right?
If so, is it a DIY fix, and is there any sort of diagram/manual that shows how to go about it? I don’t mind fitting a new part if I know what it is and where to put it!
Re: Philips ADP 136/7 not heating
What follows is from memory and is in general terms regarding old Philips dishwashers.
No heat based on an old 1990`s Philips dishwasher with an electro mechanical timer.
Common faults were broken wires in the door`s loom – very common when these get old. Cut away, with the power off of course, all the sheathing that cover the wires in the area that would bend when the door is opened and closed over the years so take off the front panel. You`ll probably have to remove the metal plate which sandwiches the wiring loom to get a proper look see. The thickest wires break first = heater wires and the live and neutral to and from the on off swith part of the timer are always the most suspect. If so make new lengths of wire by using a the wire from a 13amp washing machine cable cut to length at about a foot long should do the trick and for godsake do one wire at the time, brown, then blue, brown ect and replace all the wires in that loom using decent connectors- 13 amp connector block strips is the easiest way then flatten out the new loom and use gaffer tape to stop chaffing. Very important as mentioned to use decent amperage connector blocks and I used to solder the ends of the wires before screwing them down tight.
The heater`s over load on the top of the heater tube ( if fitted ), more or less on the left hand side underneath, clicks out = no heat. click it back down, then run a decsaler through it with all fingers crossed
The heater tube itself has gone open circuit? And probably obsolete?
One or two series were fitted with a heating relay but that part usually gave little trouble – flat, square, usually grey colour with about 6 wires.
The 60 degree stat which was, I think, attached to a metal plate attached to a short stubby hose near the heater.
That is about it!!!
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