Siemens Dishwasher SN258B00ME tap/water supply indicator

[chris WATTS]

Is it possible to test the function of the aquastop valve. When the machine is turned on, even after the recommended reset pause the no water light comes straight on. Nothing else. The supply tap is fine, and the filters etc inside the aquastop were all spotless.
Where can I test to see if it is receiving any power? – or could the main controller board be dead? It is in a holiday home and had not been used for several months.

[electrofix]

the water check light would not normally come on until after the programme has started which makes me think the fault is more serious

if any modern appliance is not used for some time it is important to turn them off at the plug. The reason is the machine is not really off but in standby where the power supply on the board is still active waiting for you to press the on button.

i assume from what your saying no other part of the display lights up or any other lights

Dave

[chris WATTS]

Yes that is correct, nothing else is displayed and the light comes on immediately, it takes a few seconds to go off again when isolated but I assume that is because of a stored charge in a capacitor somewhere inside the appliance.

It is in a clients house in France and due to covid he has not been able to visit for several months.

He did turn off the water at the meter but did not isolate the electricity to keep the boiler and freezer on. As power is usually on an overhead TT supply here and we do get a lot of lightning and current surges, I was thinking it is probably the controller that is fried. It happens to a lot of boiler PCBs here although his on this occasion is OK.

When you reinstate the power to the dishwasher after a reset would it nomally go through a boot-up test before displaying a fault such as this?

[electrofix]

with a water supply fault you normally have to select and start a programme and then it takes 30 secs or so for the machine to realise there is no water flow

the fact this light come on immediately make me think its a controller fault

as for the power, I understand the need for continous supply to a boiler but you can switch off or unplug individual appliances when not in use

I also suggest you look at installing surge protectors on the incoming supply to try to reduce the likelihood of failure

Dave

[chris WATTS]

Thanks Dave.
I have already told him to do this – and numerous other clients, but they don’t seem to always remember or listen.
The surge protector may be a good idea, They are on many main supply boards but normally will only protect against lightning not voltage spikes.
We put individual ones on TV /Sky /Modems all the time I will see what they are rated at to see if they are suitable for large appliances.

Thanks again for your help.

[chris WATTS]

Sorry Dave

Would it be the power module or the controller module that is most likely gone, or would you swap out both?

[electrofix]

at a guess i would say operating module but is only an educated guess

but if you look at costs at parts its probably beyond repair. programmed operating module is £193 and the power board is £111

Have guessed as model no as your Enr number is incomplete and i cant tell age as you did not post Fd number

Dave

[chris WATTS]

Thanks Dave, The Enr Number is SN258B00ME/34 FD9806 Z-nr.: 00252 / SN258B00ME 018060379850002524

[electrofix]

according to those figures it was built June 2018 so its not that old

prices above are correct

as for surge protection you can get whole house units and fit on the mains incoming supply

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CGSRG1VCU.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=415703895090&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=CGSRG1VCU&product_partition_id=963257116004&campaign=shopping_switchgear_distribution&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=CjwKCAjwi9-HBhACEiwAPzUhHMZgK-WX60oETsOkH3W5G6qfDSjD7VhxWsymt8WBb7sEtGETqlsCgRoCsR0QAvD_BwE

Dave

[chris WATTS]

Thanks very much for your help.

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