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I’m trying to source a start relay and overload switch for a helkama mini fridge, model no is HUK 41 LON. RED BULL. The only orther info on it is Nr 308014172 and A041005. Fridge switches on, lights up but no noise and no cooling. I think it’s a start relay, I’ve googled and looked at youtube videos and this seems the first thing to try.
Never heard or seen one of these but the relay is not the first thing I would be checking. I understand you seeing the light but what do you mean by ‘fridge switches on’? Do you mean switches on with the temp control knob?
iadom wrote:Never heard or seen one of these but the relay is not the first thing I would be checking. I understand you seeing the light but what do you mean by ‘fridge switches on’? Do you mean switches on with the temp control knob?
There is an external light that turns on/off by a switch, lights up the red bull logo on the front. the temp knob on the rear is missing so don’t know what is low or high, just a metal spud to turn.
High to low is normally clockwise to lower temp, anti clockwise to higher temp Can you here or feel any click when you turn it?
iadom wrote:High to low is normally clockwise to lower temp, anti clockwise to higher temp Can you here or feel any click when you turn it?
No, no click and no noise. I left it switched either way on separate days but no noise. The relay unit looks different from what I can see on youtube, it’s a 3-pin connection, holes on the unit go into pins on the compressorand appears to be a solid unit rather than the two part examples I see on youtube. Videos say if you shake it and it rattles it’s broken but this doesn’t. It’s white and there is what looks like burning on it.
If there is not sign of a click from the thermostat that would be the first thing I would suspect and check. In spite of what you have seen online the relay is not a common cause of fridge failure. Thermostats and compressor failure are much more likely. If you have the means and the correct test equipment it should be very easy to check if there is a circuit from the mains plug to the compressor. The compressor does get very hot so heat discolouration is not uncommon. Also most old style relays should rattle if you shake them.
iadom wrote:If you have the means and the correct test equipment it should be very easy to check if there is a circuit from the mains plug to the compressor.
I don’t know anything about fridges apart from what I’ve googled but I have a multimeter. If this is what to use what do I do?
You need to test for a circuit from the mains plug live terminal to the compressor and back from the compressor to the neutral. You do not need the machine plugged in to do this. If your multimeter has a simple audible test function that is perfectly adequate. Unless the unit is an auto defrost system the wiring circuit on any basic fridge is the simplest there is on any kitchen appliance.
iadom wrote:You need to test for a circuit from the mains plug live terminal to the compressor and back from the compressor to the neutral. You do not need the machine plugged in to do this. If your multimeter has a simple audible test function that is perfectly adequate. Unless the unit is an auto defrost system the wiring circuit on any basic fridge is the simplest there is on any kitchen appliance.
Thanks. Multimeter set to ohms, no readings from plug live to any of the 3 pins on the compressor, same with neutral. does that mean the compressor is dead?
No, it means the thermostat could be faulty although you should get a reading from the plug neutral to the relay. A seized compressor could easily blow the small overload device. Set your meter to megohms and test between the three pins on the compressor.
iadom wrote:No, it means the thermostat could be faulty although you should get a reading from the plug neutral to the relay. A seized compressor could easily blow the small overload device. Set your meter to megohms and test between the three pins on the compressor.
No readings. It’s a really old unit, just didn’t want to throw it out if there was an easy fix but I think it’s not worth fixing. Thanks for all your help.
If you get no readings at all between any of the three compressor pins then the unit is dead, BER beyond economic repair.:(
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