STOVES 600SIDOm Double Oven – Gas does not flow to either oven

[tigershoot]

I have owned this double oven for 20 years. Many years ago the top oven would flow gas but would not ignite so I stopped using it and we have soley used the bottom oven. It has lit perfectly every time. Today my wife lit it and set the timer for 10 minutes. She came back to find the flame had gone out. There was a very feint whiff of gas.
We waited a few minutes and the lower oven would not light. No gas flowed.
So I tried the top oven (which has not lit using the igniter button for maybe ten years) and incredibily it lit first time and stayed lit.
I didn’t need to use the oven for another few hours, so I switched it off.
About three hours later I tried the top oven again and no gas would flow. I tried the bottom oven and no gas either.
All four burners work fine, but now neither oven will flow gas.
What do you think is wrong? Is it worth fixing? If I know which parts need changing I am familiar with doing repairs, so I will have a go.

[kwatt]

It sounds like a flame failure device fault and, if you could get one for it which is iffy at best given the age, I’d not advise a repair given the age and costs involved. Because, most FFDs are North of £80, many over £100 and require a Gas Safe repairer to replace them so, you’re the best part of £200 and that much on a cooker that old… it ain’t worth it.

K.

[electrofix]

my understanding of the flame failure device is it lets a small amount of gas flow till it warms up and then opens to allow full flow

since you say you have no flow it could be other things. If the unit has a clock that allows you to automatic cook that will stop the oven
also some ovens have an electrically driven solenoid that can fail

but most of these components as K says have to be fitted by gas safe engineers who will test not only your cooker but the safety of you gas system

Dave

[kwatt]

A number of them, if they fail, shut the gas to the ovens off but leave the hob okay, a separate thing normally reliant on thermocouples only for safety. Whereas the oven will often have the FFD/FSD and a thermocouple.

If it were the thermocouple, it’d light then go out just like a hob.

The FFD is about the only thing that can chop the gas supply to the oven yet leave the hob working, hence my educated guess that was the likely culprit.

If it were the clock, the oven’d be electrically dead, no light etc., fan if fitted. But I don’t think you can get a gas oven to operate on a timed thing, safety I reckon as I’ve not seen one that could self-ignite.

I hope that makes sense and I’m explaining my thinking well enough.

I’d need the full serial number to try to check it, but all that old GDHA stuff is a nightmare to find info on, if you can, as their old parts lookup system blew up or something.

K.

[tigershoot]

The clock is for display only. You cannot time the oven or anything from it.
Plate on back says MOD: 050551109
PIN 87AS38
S/No: 20120720
G20 @20 mbar
I tried to upload a photo but it wouldn’t work.

[electrofix]

if you want to post a photo
host it on another site and post a public link

or use another site to reduce photo size

Dave

[kwatt]

It has both an FFD and gas control valve in it, either are possible but sadly both are obsolete.

K.

[tigershoot]

OK thanks. I guess it’s not worth keeping then. One thing I liked about it is that it’s total height, i.e. the height of the surface of the glass was the same as the worksurface. Looking at some new ones and the burners sit high, and then the glass level is even higher. Mine has dark smoked glass so it hid the burners well.

[Author]

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