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To easily remove those collapsed drum bearing sleeves, simply drill directly behind the sleeve into the aluminium housing behind. Using the latest (extra long) type of 6mm and 10mm drill bit that has a hexagonal drive designed for battery electric drills.
Soak the area first in WD40 then, using the 6mm drill first drill an 8mm deep hole, then enlarge that hole with a 10mm drill and carefully angle the drill in such a way as to create a neat groove. Then from the back of the tub, using a sharp tipped cold chisel (most important) and lump hammer. Strike the bearing collar out (couple of strikes should do it!
Martin
P.S. The Hotpoint extractor is useless by comparison and should only be confined to putting the new bearings in.
Martin,
Well said mate. We only have to do this because some design eejit removed the two slots which had been there for years.
Your method can also be successfully applied to that nasty two part merloni back panel and Indesit plastic tank machines.
Regards,
Penguin.Re: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
What about the extractor which fits into the outer race in two pieces, push the bolt through and pull out the offending sleeve? works on all 6205 front bearings. Will be out before you can start your drill. will admit it wont work if front race is cracked in two.
Regards
SparkeyRe: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
The Hotpoint Extractor simply does not work. Only use it to put the new bearings in and not waste time using those colletts in trying.
Martin
If the collets were a tight fit around around the drawing bolt the extractor would work, but they aren’t. Did one with my set a coulple of years ago and it very neatly pulled out the entire front bearing housing!
Regards,
Penguin.Re: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
Nice one. Used this method yesterday. Saved me having to get the pullers sent through and saved the customer waiting another couple of weeks.
Keep the tips coming. I need em 😛Funny how things come back to you after a pint or four. There’s a chap in Castleford called John Bunting (Sorry, NO idea of the number) who came up with a puller specifically for the 6205 outer race. It was a sort of twist fit insert into the outer race, then you shot the bolt and sleeve into place and IT WORKED!! NO spring loaded collets or any of that nonsense. I’ll ask about and see if I can’t track him down.
Honestly, it was one of those simple ideas that when you see it you go “Why didn’t I think of that?”
Regards,
Penguin.The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
Penguin45 wrote:I’ll ask about and see if I can’t track him down.
Would be interesting to find out if you could penguin? I know Snaplock make a ‘Blind Hole Bearing Puller’ but that is like all Snaplocks products, is far too expensive and next to useless anyway!
Martin
Penguin45 wrote:Funny how things come back to you after a pint or four. There’s a chap in Castleford called John Bunting (Sorry, NO idea of the number) who came up with a puller specifically for the 6205 outer race. It was a sort of twist fit insert into the outer race, then you shot the bolt and sleeve into place and IT WORKED!! NO spring loaded collets or any of that nonsense. I’ll ask about and see if I can’t track him down.
Honestly, it was one of those simple ideas that when you see it you go “Why didn’t I think of that?”
Regards,
Penguin.As you say the simple ideas are the best. 😉
I consider the later bearing removal/fitting kit one of the best £65’s I
have ever spent.
I do not use it to remove the bearings regardless of their condition. I use the large drift that was part of the original Hotpoint supplied bearing removal kit before it was superceded by the kit in the red plastic box. It matters not wether you use the removal tool or a drift, if the bearing is going to collapse then it will, drift or drawer makes no difference, but the drift & the Birmingham screwdriver is quicker. 🙂If the bearing collapses I remove all the rubble, broken bearings etc.
I then use the spring loaded colletts, I place them inside the bearing outer shell, but before I insert the threaded shaft I prise the colletts open at one end then insert a small bolt or pin ( I actually use the small pin that was used to mount the last design of pecker on the GEC/GDA motor. It is a perfect fit and using this I manage to draw out around 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the bearing outer casings. Only if it splits do I have to resort to ‘other’ measures, but I would never dream of putting extremes of heat anywhere near a nylon drum. I also clean the inside of the alloy collar as best I can before attempting to draw out the bearing shell.I have had a much harder steel threaded shaft for this kit made by a friend with a small engineering firm.
Re: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
Is this info applicable to the WMA range or only the WM range or all??
Re: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
Seamy wrote:Is this info applicable to the WMA range or only the WM range or all??
Yep!…even the WMA’s are a piece of cake this way (i.e my way, at the top if the’re really not budging using those lousy outer race sprung-loaded collets from the Hotpoint Toolkit that is) Seamy 8)
Martin
Re: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
jesus Martin, sounds like a long winded way of doing it to me! I use the Hotpoint Bearing tool for extraction and insertion, never had any problems with it, I find it quick and efficient ( I only use it on WM’s), I replace the tank back on WMA’s, it’s quicker than pratting about with the bearings and it’s a much better repair, the rear tank kit includes a new heater and belt too.
Put your drill away mate.Re: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
Cost, Jim, its all about cost – Martin’s an Independent (partly off the planet – we all know that), so time is less of an issue than expense. It’s worth his while to “recover” a back half and fit new bearings and seals, than to go for the half tank. To sole traders this is often the difference between the job getting done or lost – and sometimes not being paid!
Chris.
Re: The Easy Way to remove Hotpoint Drum Bearings
I hear what you say Chris, and when I’m working for myself (as against Merloni), I recover the tank rear and fit new bearings. I ALWAYS use the Hotpiont Tool, if the bearing sleeve has split I drift it out with a tensile steel drift and a club hammer, I’ve never had drill anything (I’ve been repairing white goods for over 20 years). It’s bad engineering practice to damage an appliance in an effort to repair it.
iadom wrote:
Penguin45 wrote:
Funny how things come back to you after a pint or four. There’s a chap in Castleford called John Bunting (Sorry, NO idea of the number) who came up with a puller specifically for the 6205 outer race. It was a sort of twist fit insert into the outer race, then you shot the bolt and sleeve into place and IT WORKED!! NO spring loaded collets or any of that nonsense. I’ll ask about and see if I can’t track him down.Honestly, it was one of those simple ideas that when you see it you go “Why didn’t I think of that?”
Regards,
Penguin.As you say the simple ideas are the best. 😉
I consider the later bearing removal/fitting kit one of the best £65’s I
have ever spent.
I do not use it to remove the bearings regardless of their condition. I use the large drift that was part of the original Hotpoint supplied bearing removal kit before it was superceded by the kit in the red plastic box. It matters not wether you use the removal tool or a drift, if the bearing is going to collapse then it will, drift or drawer makes no difference, but the drift & the Birmingham screwdriver is quicker. 🙂If the bearing collapses I remove all the rubble, broken bearings etc.
I then use the spring loaded colletts, I place them inside the bearing outer shell, but before I insert the threaded shaft I prise the colletts open at one end then insert a small bolt or pin ( I actually use the small pin that was used to mount the last design of pecker on the GEC/GDA motor. It is a perfect fit and using this I manage to draw out around 75{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the bearing outer casings. Only if it splits do I have to resort to ‘other’ measures, but I would never dream of putting extremes of heat anywhere near a nylon drum. I also clean the inside of the alloy collar as best I can before attempting to draw out the bearing shell.I have had a much harder steel threaded shaft for this kit made by a friend with a small engineering firm.
In my best Blue Peter voice, “here’s one I did earlier”, this morning in fact. Came out as clean as a whistle, and this machine had thrown the belt off due to the state of the front bearing. Even on the odd occasion that the outer shell splits, whats left is much easier to remove than the whole casing.
you can see the small bolt in situ, using this method, the much malinged ‘collets’ will never slip out of the bearing shell.
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