Home › Forums › Trade Technical & Spare Parts Forums › Trade Technical Enquiries › Tricity Marquis 2935
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Pigpen4.
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December 28, 2010 at 8:16 pm #59823
Pigpen4
ParticipantI know this cooker’s a bit of a dinosaur, but the old dear wants it to outlast her! (I’ve had a few of these, lately!! :rolls: )
Model number: 2935. Serial Number: MC9802567
This is my first ceramic hob job, so please feel free to teach me to suck eggs with this one – I won’t take offence, promise.
Front left ceramic hob gets too hot, even when selected on lowest heat position.
No matter what heat setting its switch is set to, the resistance across “live” and “feed” is the same (around 5ohms), but then the other three hob switches are also doing the same thing, so is this normal?
Also, with power back on, its switch measures the same AC voltage across “feed” and “neutral” as do the other three.
I believe, therefore, that the fault does not lie in the switch.I suspected, therefore, (and probably incorrectly, also, but I’m hoping someone will enlighten me) that the hob element is probably at fault.
It measures 20cm (8″) in diameter across its metal housing.
The markings on it are 20037-T1 and 36801.I have been unable to find such an element, or even such a cooker on any of the spares websites.
My questions are threefold:
1. With no difference in resistance or voltage output on the switch (and definitely no thermocouple involved – just live, neutral and feed connections), how does the element know what temperature is expected of it ❓
2. Is my (somewhat stab-in-the-dark) suspicion that the element is at fault likely to be correct ❓
3. Does anyone have a part number for the bit required to fix this ❓
Thanks for your patience and understanding of my apparent ineptitude with this, and thank you in advance for your replies 🙂
Pigpen.
December 29, 2010 at 3:09 pm #339745leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Tricity Marquis 2935
I should think it uses an energy regulator. This works differently from a thermostat so your measurements wouldn’t prove anything much. If you don’t have a spare regulator to hand, and I’d have thought one for that old banger would be cheap anyway, you could try “borrowing” one of the others if they are same type and see if it then transfers the fault, if you see what I mean. If you find the regulator is obsolete, post up a description and numbers. One of us may have one.
Mike.December 30, 2010 at 1:32 pm #339746Pigpen4
ParticipantRe: Tricity Marquis 2935
Thanks, Mike.
I’m having trouble trying to identify another energy regulator, though, as the cooker is not listed on the spares sites.
Any ideas, please?
Thanks,
Pigpen.December 30, 2010 at 1:34 pm #339747Allsorts
ParticipantRe: Tricity Marquis 2935
Have a look on the regulator itself… it usually has some markings to identify its type and model
George
December 30, 2010 at 6:23 pm #339748Criscold
ParticipantRe: Tricity Marquis 2935
If I remember – the Energy Regulators were 31ER1 single circuits and now replaced by 31ER1HT + you have mail
December 30, 2010 at 11:29 pm #339749leavemetogetonwithit
ParticipantRe: Tricity Marquis 2935
At the top of this forum the last sticky is called, “Diamond H wiring reference”
Ken posted a link to a pdf there which is a mine of information, though the pc I’m using at the moment won’t let me get at it.
Mike.December 31, 2010 at 4:48 pm #339750Pigpen4
ParticipantRe: Tricity Marquis 2935
Thanks, Chaps.
I had seen the Diamond H reference a few times before, as I’ve been browsing this site, and until now it had made absolutely no sense at all to me!
Now, as I’ve progressed a little, and as you’ve pointed it out to me at the right moment, it makes sense – Yippee!
Been doing this for nearly a year, now, and I’m very thankful to all contributors of the many messages I’ve browsed and searched, as well as to those of you who’ve answered my many queries thus far.
One word sums it up – invaluable! -
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