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customers sink was bolocked – washer is plumbed into sink waste so when it emptyed the sink filled up over the top and in to the top of the washer – blow the timer pcb.
the part was a sp/order but she got one from a place i do not use
any way i fitted the board for her switched it on and there is a door open light comes on- like the door is open but its locked
put a new door lock on in case water had done it in, but still the same
power light on door open light on machine dead
checked plugs on board had to change one but still the same , now its doing my head in
any ideas?
cheers paulRe: w/pool awm049
If the door “is locked” it shouldn’t make any difference but have you tried bridging the door switch live to common?
Mike.Re: w/pool awm049
Whirlpool are good at having more than one timer version throughout a Model range.
You need to check the 12 nc (12 digit number beginning with 85) and post it up here so the timer part number for the Model can be posted back in here. That way you can check your customer got the correct part!
KevinRe: w/pool awm049
i got her the part number from connect and its got same numbers on the timer asthe old one
Re: w/pool awm049
When you select a wash are you getting 240v across a water valve? If not, maybe you’ve got a pressure switch problem. Or it could be that a connector on the timer got damaged and is not making good contact.
By the way I don’t know what machine this is as I don’t have access to info except from spares catalogues. Is it one where you have to push a start button?
Mike.Re: w/pool awm049
no start button ,just on off button
slect any programe push the on off switch, the door locks, then this door open light comes on from this small pcb behind the panel
the door lock is ok, i have looked at the plugs had to change one cheked wiring from door lock
anyone know anything about this small board has a m/chip on it called a display module waterstop door open
its about 2 inches sqRe: w/pool awm049
If the machine “thinks” the door is open then it suggests that no power is getting from “common” on d/sw to the timer/pcb. Have you followed that wire and tested it for continuity up to the board? (I’m assuming the switch in the live side but this would apply also if it’s on neutral side).
If it’s not that, then you just have to look at each component in turn and see if everything seems OK plus a careful examination of wiring harness for shorts/abrasion. When you’ve eliminated all that it comes back to timer. :haier:
Mike.
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