Washer dryer Indesit XWDE 751480X K UK – 869990888070 Error F08

[Bad_81]

Hey ALL,
As per the title I am struggling with this one – XWDE 751480X K UK – 869990888070 the numbers are as per the Indesit search engine:

The issue is on washing cycle in 10-20 min, when the water is in (after filling) the heater starts working and soon or later, BAM – F08.
Took the PCB OFF it has W(and the whirlpool’s logo on top of it) Indesit 0303.03 between transformer and capacitor, on the side where the elements are (call it face). On the bottom of it – UD2 94V-0 1833, let’s say pcb type…
On the back – nothing!
What I checked and before and today, can not upload pics as the 2 MB limit is…too little for normal picture, so details:
Heater Ohm
Wash 31.9
Dry 44.6
NTC thermistor KOhm. Deg C +KOhm. Deg C. + KOhm. Deg C. KOhm. Deg C.
Wash. ________24.2. __20. ___28.7. __16.2 ___24 ____20.1
Dry. __________24.3. __20 ___27.8 ___16.5 ___14.3 ___33.1 __21.1 ___22
Details on the NTC:
Wash 20010101 T 051218
Dry 20K 18/34 EPCOS On 1side, 162002707.00 on the other.
I found PDFs with wirings, but they do not match ( cable connector numbers and wires going to RR, not RA, etc.)

Today for a change I started DRY cycle and less than 10 min same F08. The consumption was 4.7 -5.1 on the inlet of the machine, including motor, panel, heater.

Now the Questions:

Can anyone help me with accurate wiring diagrams for the model above?
– since 20 Mar ‘25, I am not able to source it or find a person to help with it!

20K means 20KOhm at 20C temp, by default. However both of mine are 24, are they BOTH gone at the same time or is acceptable (measuring device not accurate, etc) marginal error?

Extra details I saw/found:
Relay K3 on the PCB is “closed” while the PCB is on the working table (surgery table let’s say, without any power supply) and gives signal (may be) or just closes circuit to Fan Dry (CN3 pin4) and pin 3 on CoNector2, that is actually inlet of relay K1.
The NO end of the K1 goes to Heater Wash (CN1 pin2) that is supposed to be L (240V), as the K2 relay NO is connected to the other end of the Heater Wash and the inlet is connected to N – CN2 pin2 – blue wire from the main power supply.

I can upload videos and pics to mega, but it will take few days as they are plenty.
Thanks!

[Bad_81]

No one has an idea – wirings to share?

[electrofix]

did you check the heater resistance to earth ?

Dave

[electrofix]

ok small leakages to earth can upset electronics even though they cant trip the rcd

you could try connecting a lamp across the wires ( not an led one) to simulate the element without chances of earth leakage

was wondering if as the heater got hot the leakage increased giving rise to your fault code

Dave

[Bad_81]

Evening Dave, thanks for the advise!
I have defrost heating element about same 1800-1900 Watts but 1100mm long, will hook it up and will try it and lamp too, just never (except car bulbs) needed to use lamp… Multimeter and amp clamps are usually OK…
And if you up for brain-scratching what would trigger F08 in Dry mode?
Let’s say Heater Wash is a goner, it has nothing to do with Dry!

[electrofix]

no but the heater get hot in dry mode and could lower its insulation resistance

we need to hook up something with no earth which is why a lamp is good

then try dry mode and see what happens

if it gives F08 then it cant be a heater fault to earth

Dave

[Bad_81]

Bulb from Tesco – 28W or so, cycle completed no drama, no….
Before that Heater that is only 2 wires – but as is longer and I had no extra powerful fan, when it reached 110C (infrared thermometer) I unplugged one wire.

after the Bulb test with the bulb still attached I started #14 – 30 dry cycle. The K1 relay was not supplied, but the lamp wires to ground 90V~ and after 15 or so minutes (nice smell of warmed fibres) F13 and water inlet and pump ON.
Stopped the power supply waited 5 min – purposely to not let it cool too much and started again Drain only!
F19…https://indesitservice.co.uk/washer-dryer-repair/error-codes fan on heater is not functional…I was able to hear it during the cycle – that is first. It was not needed as selected task is draining.

Am I missing something or the PCB is totally FUBAR?

[electrofix]

those 2 fault codes only affect the dryer

1st one is to do with the sensor and the 2nd is a fan triac driver fault

f13 NTC dryer sensor open / short-circuiting. Fan
Motor jammed. Condenser or blower clogged

F19 Fan motor not wired / Fan motor driving triac
short circuit or Switch relay contacts
sticking / Fan motor pin feedback in shot
circuit with Vcc

dave

[Bad_81]

Well, I happen to had the same connector from a TRUE (American brand) freezer sensor(s) set and I replaced it on the thermistor end with 20 cm cable. I was thinking to replace the whole line, but it was showing the readings (almost the same) on the PCB end, so I called it good/working, still soldering the wires directly to PCB will not be a problem.

The assembly – dry heater, fan, ductwork was separated (open) the fan is like new, the ductwork (going down to the drum) was vacuumed and pressure blown. Washed off (the ball with the drain rubber was taken off and cleaned) without the heater being there with degreaser and water 1:5, going directly in a bucket (used car ramps to rise the washer). And was working well for about 15 min, fan was audible too, is it not supposed to have the thermistor read from the very beginning of the dry process?

Vcc?

[electrofix]

cant answer that due to lack of technical info but i assume the NTC will be contantly monitored

Dave

[Bad_81]

So I had the time to check more – after yesterday’s new errors.
Wire connector on the PCB shows the readings of the NTC-DRY
Using RCD + spades and heat shrink tube directly on the terminals with main power off and PCB on the table far from the unit
– Fan motor runs on max without problems and consumes 0.26Amp – never bothered to read the motor RLA.
– Attached and the Heater(wago connectors with 3 slots) – no readings changed, the RCD did nothing, only fan running.

After disconnecting all, I measured the heater element – nothing on the scale. Took another multimeter – Nothing. Each end to ground – nothing.
Decided to disconnect/dismantle and see what I will see….
1. The small hose from the top of the fan housing to the detergent/softener caddy – melted where the clip had it pressed!
2. Decided to take the metal duct assembly OFF this time (I had it opened and cleaned last time) the rubber on the clamp – wire with screw inside a rubber – melted.
3. Decided to check the heater, as I expected something like Christmas tree inside- nope all good with the heater it is in 1 piece.

4. 3 or 4 fan fins were with different colours…
5. The plastic ductwork going down the drum (some site are addressing it as condenser) is OK, some dirt/fibres are still attached
6. Filter on the exit of it, going in the drum is 70-80 clear.

So whatever happened yesterday F13 and F19 managed to overheat the plastics/rubbers and destroy the heater dry and for whatever reason called for heater Fan in Drain mode …

I now have expensive junk!

Anyone needs spares as they are still good!?!

[Author]

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