Washer Fault Finding – I’m stumped!

[PJBodger]

I have Beko washer dryer about 4 yrs old WDEY854P44QG.
Near the end of a cycle, the spin was really loud and house electricity tripped. All went back on ok and machine power was ok. When trying a cycle start the door lock clicks 4-5 times and cycle won’t begin. I replaced the door lock with another genuine part and there’s no difference. Although they all looked ok, I cleaned out the drawer assembly unit, the black hose leading down to it, the bottom black drainage flexi hose, the drain pump, filter and drainage hose. I’ve checked inlet pump and this motor does not have brushes. I’ve looked at everything I know, the belt and motor seem fine and the drum turns ok. I’ve also replaced the big pcb unit at the bottom, that I think is mainly to control the motor, and this has not made any difference. I have no code displayed, I’ve tried all kinds of procedures that are online to get to a diagnostic mode but none work. I’ve checked the main pcb unit at the top as well as the control board behind the front display and I can’t smell or see any visible issues with any electrical components. I’m at quite a loss now as to what the issue is. If I knew, I would change that part or just buy a new machine if it was too expensive to change. Could the new replacement door lock also be faulty? Incidentally – they both actually lock the door but of course then the machine will not begin a cycle.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I really don’t want to dispose of another white good adding to the already huge mound of waste us humans produce!

[electrofix]

I would take the top off and look around

if it was noisy it sounds like the drum has been bouncing around too much. Huge problem with washer dryers is the lack of room for the drum to move before it hits something

also any parts you replace on Beko can be serial number specific so make sure they supply the correct part. Have often had a part numbers change when you enter a serial no probably due to having different software

am possibly expecting damage to the wiring harness at some point

Dave

[PJBodger]

Yes the drum bouncing around. All wiring looks in tact and connected.
I know what you mean about the parts numbers. The door lock part number for example – when you put in the machine model it brings up 3 different part numbers in total. The one that arrived – on the packaging the part number was one of them, slightly different to the part number on the unit inside the packaging but this was actually the same number (and same brand) as the one I was removing.

[electrofix]

well something caused the electric to go off so something has touched something it shouldn’t

you need to find out what

Dave

[PJBodger]

I will focus on that, thanks Dave

[andyjawa]

Do you mean the tank unit is bouncing around or the drum is bouncing about as in it is loose relative to the tank? Sounds like to me the problem is a cracked spider arm (the drum / bearing spider that supports the drum) hence the racket – a quick spin of the drum by hand proves nothing if it is that and if it is that the drum drops (rather like a buckled bicycle wheel looked at set horizontally) and the drum cuts the heater = takes out the trip. I do not necessarily think that this is your problem but it could be. There are 3 arms to the aluminium alloy spider that you cannot see neither can you replace it because the plastic tank should be a sealed jobby but to prove a point: when you peer into the tank each paddle would line up with each spider arm, put one paddle at 6 o/clock and your hand on lip of the front of the drum and t`other hand at 12o/clock and see if you get a pronounced movement for each paddle position. Obviously the whole TANK unit is going to move when you do this cause of the top tank springs but you are looking for movement between the drum and in relation to the tank.
Another problem is a chaffing tumble dryer heater too so you want to see it that is loose within the t/dryer manifold – the aluminium heater “box” housing in other words and if it is from memory you have to replace the whole of that unit not just the t/dyer heater which is not available as a separate part – but that is from memory so could be wrong and you can..

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