Whirlpool ADG957 fault

[JuSi]

I have an integral Whirlpool ADG957, serial no. 8542 957 15410, five years old.

When a programme starts, any standing water (e.g. that I’ve manually poured into the dishwasher for test purposes) is correctly drained, then after a few minutes of humming (which is apparenly the drain pump) the machine starts beeping continuously. Opening the door reveals the start light to be flashing steadily (once every approx 0.5 secs) and continuously – no variation in the flashing to indicate a specific fault code.

Had a local “domestic engineer” out to look at it – he looked at various bits then came to the conclusion that the problem is likely in one or both of the control modules (the main PCB at the bottom of the machine or the user control PCB in the door); he wasn’t prepared to take things further and suggested that I either get a qualified engineer out or cut my losses buy a new machine(!). He was convinced that the problem wasn’t due to a blockage or other mechanical problem – certainly there are no apparent leakages.

So, I’m open to suggestions as to what my options are. Are there any further checks that I can perform myself, or should I go for a qualified service engineer? If it’s the engineer option, what are the chances that he would be able to correctly diagnose a PCB fault, or is he likely to diagnose by trial-and-error replacement (with attendant costs) – in which case a new machine might be a viable alternative …?

[DentedPorsche]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

From your description of the flashing light you need an NTC.
You’ll find the part in Shop@ or you can get an engineer by clicking on the link repairs@ or the link at the end of this message.

DP

[gegsy]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

NTC Feeler sensor p/no – 481228268035
:plug: Unplug before attempting any repair on the appliance

Greg

[JuSi]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

Thanks for the responses. I’ve ordered a new NTC – the only question now is whether I’m up to fitting it myself.

A search of the forum has come up with plenty of advice about NTCs, but no specific guidance for replacement – any chance someone could explain how the thing is secured? I can see both ends of the thing (i.e. the single plastic domed ‘prong’ pointing up inside the tub and the twin plastic ‘wings’ pointing down underneath the unit). Does it twist/screw out downwards or is there a trick to it?

Apologies for the entirely non-standard terminology.

[gegsy]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

Take filters out and look into sump.
You will see NTC and 2 locking wings. From below, just twist until the locking wings are level with cut outs in base allowing it to be extracted from base(Will become apparent more so from top)

Greg

[JuSi]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

OK – couple of quick questions. As I understand it, the NTC is a temperature-controlled device. But the only temperature in the machine is the ambient air temperature, because no water is getting into it to affect the NTC.
Is this irrelevant, i.e. basically once the NTC is knackered the machine’s knackered?
Why would a faulty NTC cause the machine to attempt to drain water that isn’t there?

[Dave_Conway]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

The PCB constantly monitors all components from power on.

If any are faulty and depending on which component has failed, it may abort the cycle switching the pump on to empty any water that may be in there. The NTC is one such failure that causes total abort so nothing will work until it is replaced.

Hope that explains it 🙂

Dave.

[JuSi]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

So is it possible that the PCB can take a certain period of time to detect a faulty component? After all, on my machine the drain pump churns away attempting to drain (non-existent) water for several minutes before it’s knocked on the head.

Sorry to bang on about this, I’m just trying to weigh up the possibilities – if there’s a good chance that it’s not the NTC I’d like to book an engineer as backup. Plus I’m pig sick of doing the washing up.

[gegsy]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

You have all the information you need to make your mind up. We have guided you as much as we can.
The NTC fault is usually immediately shown once a prog is selected and door closed to activate, if that helps.

Greg

[Ivyhouselady]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

I have the same problem with my dishwasher. Can you tell me if it was the NTC? If where did you find it to replace? Thanks Ivyhouselady

[s2u]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

Hi,

This sounds like the same problem that I have. I’ve been advised to replace the NTC. I’d really appreciate it if you could you let me know whether replacing the NTC fixed your problem.

Many Thanks,
Stu

[lacj]

Re: Whirlpool ADG957 fault

My wife has been battling with the service engineer for three months now and finally the service company has decided to refund the contract.
We have a whirlpool adg957 appoximately 7 years old and it has been giving error beeps and stopping the program after about 15 minutes. I have seenthe posts about the NTC feeler on several sites but I don’t think that is quite it.
The service engineer who diagnosed the problem and decided that the machine was beyond economical repair changed the top circuit board and then decided that the fault was with the bottom board and therefore beyond economical repair. Once the funds were replaced I decided to have a go at it. I removed the ntc feeler and stuck it in a glass of hot water with my meter (ohmes) attached, the resistance seemed to go down as the device heated up. Without any reference to work from it looked to me like it was working but I bought a new one and fitted it just in case. I then thuoght to myself that the logic behind the ntc working was to detect if the water was heating up or not, so I then measured the voltage going to the water heater, it measured 240 on both wires so to me it seemed to be open circuit somewhere. On closer inspection of the bottom circuit board I noticed that there was a 12v relay so I turner the machine on and watched it. the relay seemed to be operating alright. I could see where the input voltage came from too. I could see a little dark patch in the clear plastic cover indicating some burning but I decided to isolate the board remover the cover and measure the continuity of the contacts. Sure enough, thouh the relay was reacting normally the contacts were burnt enough to cause no current to flow through the water heater. (dodgy bit here) I decided (11.30pm) to file the contacts to get some continuity, I know this relay needs replacing and I will get to it at some time. The service engineer’s diagnosis was correct, but surely he could have replaced the relay on the circuit board and saved us three months stress.

[Author]

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