Whirlpool semi-pro dryer (3RAWZ481EML2)

[SWERV]

Hi,

I have looked at the above dryer, the reported fault was no power just a ticking noise.
When you press the start switch, the relay kick in and you can hear the timer motor tick away. Other than that it doesn’t do anything else.
There is a fuse in the top of the harness which is ok. All of then thermal cut outs are ok, including the thermal fuse. The belt is also in tact.
I have little experience in this type of dryer and was running short of time, but are there any known issues that I should look for when I return?

Merv

[electrofix]

well motor is the first place to check

nothing happens on this unit till the motor starts. the heater wont switch on till the motor is revolving and the cetrifugal switch activates

also double check the belt break switch

Dave

[dunston]

Has this model got a 196* thermal fuse (not resettable) in line with the belt switch?

[SWERV]

It does list a not resettable thermal fuse on the parts list. Is this different to the one on the front of the heater duct?

[electrofix]

SWERV wrote:It does list a not resettable thermal fuse on the parts list. Is this different to the one on the front of the heater duct?

not as far as I know.

Dave

[SWERV]

I have had a look at the parts diagram and it does seem that a lot of the parts are obsolete.
I will check out the motor switch when I go back.

[electrofix]

I realise this is not your dryer but i suspect the motor and heater system will be the same. for heater just ignor its gas as the heater switch in the motor just operates the element instead of a gas valve

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/61…page=21#manual

you can see motor wiring on page 21

Dave

[SWERV]

Thanks Dave.

[Hollytree_Technical]

If you take the front bottom panel off then you should find a wiring diagram attached to the inside (Note Of Caution: I have come once or twice come across the incorrect ones being inside).

Most parts for these are available but not under the whirlpool or hotpoint UK numbers, instead you may need the numbers that are on the parts themselves.

Assuming that the thermal fuse on the exhaust duct is good then I would set the timer to a program running position and check for continuity from the following:

• White wire of motor up to the door switch (or Neutral).
• Blue wire of motor up to Live (while pressing the start button).

If these test out as okay then the timer is good, alternatively you can go the large connector block at the back of the console and test between the blue and white wires, you should get a reading of around 10 ohms (this is the circuit through the motor).

In my experiance when the motors fail they either let out the magic smoke or buzzing loudly and blow the fuse.

Jem

[Author]

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