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the electric enegises the coil and the magnetic field it creates tuns the rotor inside the motor. the rotor spins on bearings and has on one end a Fan the blows air over the coil to cool it. On the other end the shaft goes through a water seal and there is an impellor on the end. Whan the pump is full of water the impellor pushes the water out the outlet tube which in turn suck more water into the pump. The only thing that stops this process is air. Either because there is no more water or because the pump fills full of foam
Dave
Last question…I promise! When testing the pump with my ohmmeter, it goes to 0. So this means that there’s an open and the pump is no good. Is that correct??
depends what scale you using as to what happens
before you test any circuit with a multimeter you should have it set on the ohms range. there are 2 extremes. open circuit and closed circuit. hold the leads in your hands. open circuit is when the leads are not touching. Closed circuit is when you touch the leads together
if when you measure the pump it shows open circuit then the coil has gone and it need replacing. if it gives reading then the coil has a circuit. the fact you get zero may just mean you on a high scale when you should be using the lowest scale
Dave
My ohmmeter is an ancient, analog one – it has 3 ohms settings – x10, x1k and x10k. On x 10 and 1k, the reading is 0. There is no reading on x10k. I’ve watched videos where guys are testing these pumps on the bench – I have no way to do that, and don’t think it would be safe for me to reinstall the machine and stick my head in to see if the drain works while the tub is spinning like mad….lol. I guess I’ll just keep my fingers crossed and hope that the new pump fixes the draining problem…:)
Thanks again for all your info. You’ve been really patient with me…..so you have a needle that moves when you touch the leads together does it read zero ?
also test the meter every time before you take a reading by touching the lead together and make sure you get full scale deflection
cant see why you get no reading on the highest scale try touching the leads together to make sure it works
DaveYes, when I touch the leads together – which I do every time I use it, as it has a dial where you can adjust this, to make sure that the needle hits 0 – the needle swings all the way over to 0. It does the same thing when I touch the two little spade connectors on the pump. And you’re right – it does this on the pump, o matter what setting. I guess when I did it yesterday, I wasn’t making a good connection, and didn’t verify it. Is the reading supposed to be 0 at the spade connectors?
just measured a similar pump I have here and got 26 ohms across the terminals
if it is zero ohms it would go bang when it was energiseddave
Ah, thanks for that…..When my tub first starts to spin, there is a loud noise for a couple of seconds – like a loud hum. That’s the first inkling I had that something was amiss….the unusual noise that lasted for maybe a second or so. Hopefully the new pump will sort this issue out. Fingers crossed.
Back again….I just received my replacement pump from the US. I see the electrical change I’m going to have to make. While the original pump has the two spade connectors that connect the pump to the wiring in the machine, in one housing, the replacement pump has two separate housings, with one spade connector in each, marked L and N. Should I assume that the wiring from the machine is polarized, so that if I connect this backward, the pump will run backward? I understand that if I had bought this new, I would have received the instructions, as well, perhaps, as some kind of connector (hopefully) that would have the two single spade connector housings on one end, and the double housing on the other…maybe. Is there such a thing? And is it possible to hook this up backwards? Thanks again for your help.
the only reason there is a polarity is so the thermal protection if its fitted is in the live side
pump will run the same way no matter which way the wires connect
make sure its a 240v pump before you connect it
Dave
My machine is from the US, so it’s running off of 110v. Glad to hear that I don’t have to research about which wire goes where. Is there some kind of pigtail thingy that will connect the original ‘dual’ spade connector that’s now fitted on the machine, with the 2 separate connectors on the new pump??
Ugh. I see this thing is called a ‘quick disconnect terminal’, and it comes in different gauges. My head hurts. Maybe I’ll just take this to the hardware store tomorrow, and see if they can fix me up with something. This is getting too complex for me.
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