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Couldn’t find any broken wires or loose connections, fill, agitation and drain worked fine.
Suspect motor capacitor at fault as customer explained it sometimes wont spin, possibly more likely not to on super wash option (more water, more weight).
Anyone know what rating the capacitor is, please? I suspect 50uF as per video of replacement being fitted on YouTube. Original capacitor manufactured in Mexico has no rating on it!?
Many thanks.
Daniel.
as long as the motor is turning and its draining will be contaminated or worn clutch
also remove gearbox plug and see if its over filled. you get water getting in the box that pushes out the oil and contaminates the clutch
its a easy fit , you can get the whole box out in less than 15 mins
Dave
Thank you Dave.
Of course, if the motor doesn’t turn the machine wont empty as the drain impeller is attached to the motor shaft! Doh!
I’m planning on returning tomorrow to take another look.
If the gearbox is over filled? Do you just drain it and carry on? Or will the gearbox need replacing too?
Sorry for my ignorance, I only work on these very occasionally as there are not many still about.
Tahnks again.
if gearbox is overflowing water has got into it and since oil floats it pushes it out
if thats happens you would have to drain it completely and refill
you also have to find out why
also dont forget you need a long socket to get the bolt out to remove paddle
there is a cover over the bolt and make sure the cover o ring is ok
Dave
Hello Dave.
I’m scheduled to visit again on Monday, but got some further info from the customer.
I asked them to try varying load sizes to see if it made a difference.
They’ve said it didn’t, and that there doesn’t seem to be any correlation between load size and the machine not spinning. They said on all occasions where the cloths have been ringing wet at the end of the program it has drained the water. Also, sometimes, it will start the cycle, fill up and then stop. Opening and closing the lid will cause it to carry on normally.
This was my first thought, but upon visit, the lid switch behaved perfectly and wasn’t close to being on the edge of on/off.
It’s something intermittent.
Will give it a good check over on Monday and see what else I find.
I’ve also had one of these in the past where the pressure system got blocked (had to use a wire coat hanger and scrape it clear), but cant remember if the fault was overfilling/flooding or the opposite.
It sounds like it is stuck in “Neutral drain” for some reason.
This could be due to one of the pawls or spring in the gearbox being worn (normally causes it to not have neautral drain) in which case you need to get a “388253 Neutral Drain Kit”.
The other option is if the motor doesn’t momentarily pause after draining for 2 minutes (controlled by timer) then it won’t engage the spin gear.Jem
More info from the customer (as machine has always spun ok when I’ve visited to take a look)…
When it doesn’t spin, the drum will feel loose, or slippy. Rotating the drum will eventually cause it to click, or lock into position, it will subsequently spin.
The customer has been all over YouTube and wants me to replace the clutch. But, this ‘stuck in neutral’ seems more plausible to me.
If the clutch was at fault, wouldn’t the no spinning be more frequent and/or tied to heavier load sizes etc?
Very unsure how to proceed!!
does sound like it may have a gearbox problem
when it tries to spin is the agitator occillating ?
Dave
If the drum is able to be turned easily by hand then I would suggest that you may want to pull the agitator out and check the drive block (C00311287) and the top of the brake tube (W10820043), if the tabs at the top of the tube are bent or damaged then the tube may spin within the block instead of turning the block and drum.
If the top of the tube is okay then you will need to pull the gearbox out, at this point it will be worth checking the bottom of the brake tube carefully as there is a sintered metal thrust bearing at the bottom, this is normally a couple of mm thick and just above it is the circlip that holds the white plastic brake release pawl, I have seen cases where this bearing has worn away allowing the circlip and pawl to drop/twist out of position, if this has happened then you will also need the neutral drain kit for the gearbox.
If both the top and bottom of the break tube look good then you may need to clean/lubricate the pivot points for the brake pads and pawl as the brakes should automatically apply when the motor stops.
If all this looks good then it will probably be a gearbox issue.
P.S. If you want to you can take the cabinet off and then taking the lock off the cabinet and plugging it back into the harness (or using a suitable bit of wire to jump the terminals) you can then observe the clutch (put a sharpie mark on it so that it is easier to see) while it is supposedly trying and failing to spin, if the clutch spins but the drum doesn’t then it is not the gearbox.
Jem
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