White Knight Tumble Dryer

[dampshirts]

I posted a question earlier this evening, Dave_Conway replied, I came back just now and it has vanished!
Here’s the link from the email to prove the post:
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=17337
but when I click on it I get topic not found

[admin]

Re: What happened to my post?

We have had a data error and the posts since 2pm yesterday afternoon are lost.

I’m sure Dave will recreate his post to you, theres an explanation on the front page.

Kevin

[Dave_Conway]

Re: What happened to my post?

Can you remind me of the Model number please.

I recall it was a Crosslee/White Knight tumble dryer that failed to start on occasions.

Dave.

[dampshirts]

Re: What happened to my post?

Hi Dave,
It’s a CL382 WV.
It had been taking 2-30 minutes to start after turning the dial from cold. Once it had started it would take load after load without problem, but leave it a few hours and it would take a while to start.
Now it does not want to start at all, yesterday we left it on for over an hour without it starting.
I’ve tried the obvious, there is power to the socket, the timer ticks when the power is on. When the timer is off no current passes between the live and neutral wires but it does when the timer is on. The sensors all (door, fluff, heater) all pass a current. Strangely the high/low heat switch only has 2 wires and passes a current in both positions (how does this work?).
Could it be the capacitor(?) attached to the motor? I presume this is to give it a belt of current at startup to overcome the inertia of the drum.

Thanks

Ed

[Martin]

Re: What happened to my post?

Ed,

The usual faults on these machines are the most likely to wear, namely the door catch/door switch.

Assuming they are OK then from what you say it could well be yet another common fault with these, the Capacitor 😉

Martin

[dampshirts]

Re: What happened to my post?

Changed the capacitor – but it still will not start. Should it start immediately or is there a delay while it heats up?

Thanks

Ed

[Dave_Conway]

Re: What happened to my post?

Yes it should start immediately.

If the heater is coming on straight away as it seems and the motor does not start then it can either be the motor or possibly the timer contacts arent’ making properly.

More likely the motor I would suggest and it’s circa £115.00 😯

Dave.

[dampshirts]

Re: What happened to my post?

Well, as I’ve tested all the timer contacts and they seem ok I’m reluctantly agreeing with your diagnosis.
The question is what should I replace this heap of junk with? This is the second one I have had, the first ripped the bearing plate from the backplate after about 3 years and this one only lasted 18 months. The reason for choosing this model is that it appears to be the only compact with a rear vent. Would it be better to rip out the cupboard that it fits in and replace it with a standard one which should just fit, if so which are the most reliable?

Anybody want a condensor (or other parts except the motor of course)?

Thanks for your advice

Ed

[Martin]

Re: What happened to my post?

dampshirts,

I should have added in my last post that the usual way to know if the capacitor is at fault, is that usually the motor just makes a slight humming noise! That at least confirms that power is going to the motor, and therefore no hum, possibly no power, and then look elsewhere for the fault 💡

Martin

[Dave_Conway]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

I think Ed has already changed the capacitor Martin 😉

There are very few (if any) compact dryers that rear vent apart from the one you have.

Best bet is put a full size one in and go for a Bosch/Siemens or if you can stretch to it a Miele.

Dave.

[Dave_Conway]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

…Oh, and I changed the thread title so it’s now more relevent 😀

[dampshirts]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

Final try for any ideas before I attack the cupboard with an axe and go out and buy a Bosch (I’d love a Meile, matbe my Lottery numbers will come up tonight).
I’ve tested the socket, another appliance works.
The fuse, it passes a current.
When the timer is switched on it ticks, current present.
Door switch, zero resistance across contacts when door shut
Fluff switch,(don’t know if it’s the right name but it’s in the outlet air path just after the filter) zero resistance across the contacts.
Heater switch (the one with the pop-up button), zero resistance across both sets of contacts.
Could a faulty heater switch cause a variable delay before failing?
Is there anything else I can test?

Thanks guys

Ed

[Martin]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

Ed,

OK then, one more go 🙂

If when you shut the door and turn the timer on full blast, and you hear the timer motor whirring (or ‘ticking’ using your expression) does the element heat up? ‘Cos if it does, the supply to the motor is the problem, or more likely as Dave says, the motor is duff 🙁

In other words if it all bursts into life ‘except’ for the motor turning…that’s the problem and you need to start hacking at that cupboard 🙂

Martin

[admin]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

Drawing a wiring diagram (why don’t they stick one inside?) and retesting isolated the timer as the problem. Dismantling the timer revealed intermitent connections which I think confused the previous testing, a quick tweak on the springs to increase the pressure, and it’s working again.

Thanks for you help guys, it was actually Martin’s last post that made me look again, you’ve saved me £200, a fitting nightmare, and the lady of the house is happy again.

Ed

[dampshirts]

Re: White Knight Tumble Dryer

Sorry, forgot to login before posting

Ed

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