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robbra.
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July 12, 2010 at 3:54 pm #55799
robbra
ParticipantHi,
Got one of these apart but the seal won’t go flush into the housing and the large bearing won’t go back anymore. The old seal (metal housing type) has a large spring coming out of the back but the new one hasn’t.
Part nos. I have, are they the right ones?
bearing kit HPT1604473
spider HPT1604290 old one scored
Also to get the spider screws presumably a blow torch or drill out as they are rusty.
I’ve only done the 30mm ones before and they are a doddle but this one…ouch!July 12, 2010 at 4:32 pm #325168robbra
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
Just continued playing with this.
If I clean up the spider shaft it seems the seal moves in it’s metal housing so I may not have to change the spider after all.
Am I right?
All that remains is, is it the right seal?
Thanks in advance.
RobJuly 12, 2010 at 4:36 pm #325169iadom
ModeratorRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
Those are the correct parts, the Rubena seal introduced about five years ago does not have the spring in it.
Housing needs to be very clean but they are a tight fit.
Titanium drill bit is what I use for spider bolts.
I have done loads of these but don’t bother with the 30mm ones as they will fail again in short order.
Jim.July 12, 2010 at 4:45 pm #325170robbra
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
Thanks Jim,
The main worry was the seal housing not going flush.
Can’t get the bearing to move in anymore so might try anyway. Or get a bigger lump hammer 😉
RobJuly 12, 2010 at 5:51 pm #325171iadom
ModeratorRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
It has to go in as far as the original though.
July 13, 2010 at 8:17 am #325172electrofix
ModeratorRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
when the seal is all the way home it does no go flush
the metal lip of the seal housing sticks up about a mmi can sometimes get the bolts out of the spider using a blowtorch but most of the time a drill is the only way
as for the 30mm units with no spider being available i have to warn the customer it may be scrap as having to convert to 35mm cost too much
hope this helps
Dave
July 13, 2010 at 9:11 am #325173allan73
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
Just ordered in a complete drum (inner & outer) for customer to fit himself for a WMA,the price we charged him for it………..£130.
July 13, 2010 at 3:43 pm #325174robbra
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
I used a bigger lump hammer and got it all together so thanks Martin and Jim.
Incidentally could I have got away with the old spider with just a cleanup of the shaft in most cases?
Jim, what make drill bits do you use as I got through five Bosch titanium coated bits that went dull very quickly?
RobJuly 13, 2010 at 4:30 pm #325175iadom
ModeratorRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
I would guess that I reuse the spider 66{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of the time. Usually get a large sheet of wet&dry, wrap it round the shaft and spin the drum round in my hand. Never been back to a single one for subsequent bearing failure.
I buy the Bosch 8 or 10mm titanium bits from B&Q, last me ages.
Jim.
July 13, 2010 at 5:36 pm #325176robbra
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
Thanks Jim,
useful advice on both counts.
RobJuly 16, 2010 at 8:58 pm #325177JOHN CLARKE
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
If you give the spider screws a good hammering on their heads it seems to loosen them, give it a firm and steady turn suddenly they unscrew, if it does’nt work hammer it again, be careful you don’t break your torx bit in situ though.
July 16, 2010 at 9:19 pm #325178Madmac
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
JOHN CLARKE wrote: be careful you don’t break your torx bit in situ though.
Dont get yer Torx T30 bits from Halfords either :lesson: a more useless item i’ve yet to see.. very moderate pressure sees ’em snapping like a bloody twig! 😕
July 19, 2010 at 8:17 am #325179trotter
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
Madmac wrote:
JOHN CLARKE wrote:
be careful you don’t break your torx bit in situ though.Dont get yer Torx T30 bits from Halfords either :lesson: a more useless item i’ve yet to see.. very moderate pressure sees ’em snapping like a bloody twig! 😕
ALWAYS buy halfords profesional….if the torx breaks you just get a free replacement! :lesson:
It may help if you hit the screw heads with a punch (Not a fist) I give them a very good wack with a lump hammer and a punch with an end about the same dia as the screw.
I have never failed to remove a wma shaft screw using this method although I did go through a few drills before someone showed me!
You will wonder why you ever bought your drills and blowtorch :violent:
July 19, 2010 at 2:53 pm #325180EFS
ParticipantRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
Madmac wrote:
JOHN CLARKE wrote:
be careful you don’t break your torx bit in situ though.Dont get yer Torx T30 bits from Halfords either :lesson: a more useless item i’ve yet to see.. very moderate pressure sees ’em snapping like a bloody twig! 😕
The guy at halfords told me the professional range were made by Snap on.
I haven’t managed to break one yet 🙂
Steve
July 19, 2010 at 3:15 pm #325181iadom
ModeratorRe: WMA 31 bearings and spider
I have snapped a few of the Halfords Pro torx bits, they are all made in China, nothing like Snap On quality but they do keep replacing them as long as you have your original invoice. 🙂
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