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Been to look at a Hpt WMA44 one with Bosch type brushes, unfortunately i had no brushes with me so have to call again, machine is about 3-4 years old , any other fault that is likely to be the cause? Water has been pumped out etc.. is there a module on these?
Re: WMA44 no motor action
Module is behind the facia. If you look in the error codes thread you will find a ‘last error detected’ routine. Also check the wiring harness near the front, it is common for this to chafe through here.
It should be obvious if the brushes have worn down.Re: WMA44 no motor action
I always carry a small selection of (cheap) brushes without holders for such situations. I can then effect a temporary repair and only need return at a time most convenient to me.
In this case I would have left the old brushes in but “topped them up” with some bits cut off from some AEG types available cheap from Seme.
If it’s a real old banger, a “temporary” repair can be considered permanent.
Sometimes I cut the odd shaped terminals off the old Bosch ones and crimp them carefully to the AEG brush leads. Make sure the final lead length is just right so that the brush runs out before it gets to the lead when it wears down. (To avoid armature damage).
The technique works for loads of different makes.
Mike.Re: WMA44 no motor action
Brush wear on these machines is very common, especially if the machine is overloaded or used a lot. We replace the motor (easier than replacing the brushes), but for independents, then a brush change is the answer. The module rarely fails on the motor circuit unless the motor has shorted out. The symptom for a blown module is that the door won’t lock (seriously), to all the world it looks like a dead interlock, when you get the module out there are burned out tracks on the pcb. On some models motor harness wiring is chafed on the bottom counterweight leading to a short and a dead module. But in 90{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} of cases, motor not turning, dead brushes.
Re: WMA44 no motor action
jimbo2207 wrote: We replace the motor (easier than replacing the brushes).
Why ❓
Re: WMA44 no motor action
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:
jimbo2207 wrote:
We replace the motor (easier than replacing the brushes).Why ❓
Because he is not ‘Independent’ 😉Re: WMA44 no motor action
Thanks for your help guys,
have had a a lot of these Hpt’s needing new Boards, they are quite easy to do & set up, but why are they blowing, usually i change the door interlock as well because they have a habit of shorting, i’ve heard that brushes worn also can cause a failed board, is this true? Most i’ve come across have the symptom of door locked led flashing shortly after start-up, tried new interlock, no joy, then changed board, set-up & away she goes, no obvious leak from doors so i was kinda concerned as to what causes this…
Re: WMA44 no motor action
Often caused by Hotperloni engineers not tying the harness correctly following a drum change. The wires chaff on the lower concrete balance weight.
Bob
Re: WMA44 no motor action
iadom wrote:
leavemetogetonwithit wrote:
We replace the motor (easier than replacing the brushes).Why ❓
Because he is not ‘Independent’ 😉I think I see 💡 . He works for Hotperloni(?). He puts in a new motor for which the insurers pay (thus keeping up the insurance price) 😕 . By some obscure route we can buy the old motors as re-conditioned (i.e. with new brushes). And everybody’s happy. ❓
Mike.Re: WMA44 no motor action
Not quite Mike.
A company engineer will fit a new motor per instructions. The old motor will either go in the bin if they can get away with it, or may be returned to Tech for inspection and ultimate disposal. The odds on us mere mortals getting the motor to stick some brushes in are somewhere between nil and zero.The PCBs go for any number of reasons.
1) Door seal chaffed through against lock, leaks, bang.
2) Door seal is chaffed because supension dampers are not functioning properly.
3) Dampers may not be working because the friction pad dropped out when the tank was swopped out.
4) The damper pins may be a loose fit.
5) They may be knackered due to trying to cope with a partially blocked sump.
6) The wiring chafes between the fixings on the drum front.
7) The wiring chafes against the concrete block as it turns under the drum.
8) The wiring breaks in its run under the drum
9) The motor plug burns and melts due to the leak from the tub centre seal
10) It goes bang because it feels like itNo doubt we can start something here – all the ones that verybody else thinks I’ve missed.
Hotpoint – star members of The Not Very Good Club of Great Britain.
Chris.
Re: WMA44 no motor action
I sometimes came across machines with oil all over the dry side of the boot. Eventually it dawned on me that a clever Cornishman, or other nationality perhaps, had smeared it there to stop it rubbing against itself and developing a hole.
Now I do this whenever I fit a new 1603006. I’ve only ever fitted 2 WMA seals.Maybe 3.
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