WMT03 service drum/bearings.

[crankpot]

Hello, when I select the wash cycle with the knob I get 200V AC between two pins on the door interlock and about 3.5V AC between the middle pin and the other side. Open circuit, these latter two pins show a 1k8 resistance. The solenoid does not operate so I have ordered a new interlock.

I’ve checked the PCB and motor which seem intact. The armature shows 130 Ohms resistance. The fault is/was the lights go out (or very dulled) when I press start but instead of the door locked light then lighting up it merely blinks for a few seconds and then ends. When I turn the dial back to off I hear a relay behind the control panel click.

Is this likely to be the interlock at fault?

[crankpot]

WMT03 service drum/bearings.

I have found two threads here which appear to offer contradictary advice.

washing-machine-forum/hotpoint-wmt03-wiring-diagram-problem-sorted-seconds-t16512.html

States that the WMT03 model often requires a rear drum and sometimes drum support change.

washing-machine-forum/hotpoint-wmt03-warranty-t54855.html

Gives helpful advice on how to guess what bearings you have without getting the drum out.

Ideally I’d get the drum out and inspect first but the machine has parts dated from 2002 inside it so I am thinking just run it into the ground instead of giving it a nice simple bearing change. Is it just a case that the rear drum would likely be damaged in removing the old bearings and the spider may be so corroded that it should be replaced before it breaks? Does the rear drum come in both 30 and 35mm shaft sizes?

[iadom]

Re: WMT03 service drum/bearings.

I have merged your posts, I know they are different faults but it is the same machine so it keeps things tidy.

First things first, a bearing change on one of these is not ‘nice and easy’. If you are correct about the age and if the drum pulley is metal then unless the machine has been tampered with 😉 it’s 99.9{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} certain it will have the 35mm shaft & bearings.

Given your other problem I would fit the new door lock to see if it then works correctly. If it does not then the pcb will have been damaged and if the bearings are on the way out then in all honesty it’s time to invest in a new machine.

[crankpot]

Re: WMT03 service drum/bearings.

Thanks for your helpful reply iadom. The date of the old door lock was Dec 2002. Hoping that will fix it. The PCB and associated components show no signs of burn damage. In truth the machine was playing up before it finally gave up the ghost. Half an hour before it was doing the same but I somehow persuaded the door lock to activate and got 15 minutes into a hot wash. Then nothing- just the door lock blinking.

The bearings aren’t great, the drum has over an inch of play when I rock it back and forth. The rear of the tub is indeed plastic. I’d like to know if it is a “keeper” as I understand the build quality of newer models has gone down the pan. I’d rather service the drum before it gets to the point where that rear drum/plastic bit needs replacing.

On second (or fourth) reading I see you only advise to junk it if the PCB is fried. I agree with that, although I got the model for it and may look on ebay first. The drum pulley is plastic but so is the rear drum. For what reason would I need a new rear drum? Just from being too rough getting the old bearings out? Plenty of WD40 help?

[madangler1]

Re: WMT03 service drum/bearings.

If you can move the inner drum an inch the bearings are completely shot.

On a machine that age its likely 35mm, you will need a new spider, as for the rear of they have been in there that long they are not going to want to come out. An experienced engineer will even have problems but it can be done.

Have you checked the brushes as flashing door lock light is often a sign of motor problems/ worn brushes.

[iadom]

Re: WMT03 service drum/bearings.

A doorlock related fault on the PCB does not always show any visible signs of damage, you will only know once you have replaced the door lock, and made sure the door latch spring is not broken. 😉

It is not easy to see in situ but the outer drum rear will have 30mm embossed on it at the back if it has 30mm bearings in it.

No amount of WD 40 is going to help if the bearings are in a bad state or collapsed. Just brute force, and big hammer and chisel or drift. The damage done by hammering them out is why a rear drum is usually needed, along with a drum support.

Front to rear movement is normal, what you should not have is up and down movement of the inner drum. If you lift the inner stainless steel drum, the outer drum and door seal should move with it, you should not see the inner drum lifting away from the door seal. If you have an inch of movement away from the lower edge of the seal then it is really cream crackered.

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