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4thrs
ParticipantRe: Electrolux EWT959SA Washing Machine
Thanks your email.
Is there a way to bench test the motor, or the Electronic board ? Maybe bypassing sensors etc?
Thanks4thrs
ParticipantRe: Electrolux EWT959SA Washing Machine
Took the motor out, could not see any screws loose or gear teeth broken. Clutch and spring also look good.
Had a good look at the Power Board, no visible dry solder joints, no bulging caps,
all in ESR specs. The irams ic motor chip, does not physically look burnt or blown, but do these chips often go faulty?.Not sure what else I can check.
Thanks4thrs
ParticipantRe: Electrolux EWT959SA Washing Machine
Thank you for your quick reply, I will take out the motor/transmission and have a look.
September 16, 2015 at 6:09 am in reply to: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine #4301254thrs
ParticipantRe: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine
electrofix wrote:cant be certain on that one there are 2 types of chips used in this type of postion cant remember the other but will look around and try and repost later
Dave
Dave,
Thank you very much for your help.Machine is now working again. Replaced Resistor/Fuse and installed an upgraded chip LNK305PN( not the SMD type, had to wire up an 8pin ic socket, just in case the chip blows up again)instead of the original LNK304GN.
Thanks again Dave.September 11, 2015 at 2:25 am in reply to: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine #4301244thrs
ParticipantRe: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine
electrofix wrote:cant be certain on that one there are 2 types of chips used in this type of postion cant remember the other but will look around and try and repost later
Dave
Managed to scrape a bit more lacquer off the chip and it looks like it is a LNK304GN. Data sheet says Link Switch 85-265 ac input and 12V dc out.
Is this correct?Thanks
September 10, 2015 at 2:25 am in reply to: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine #4301224thrs
ParticipantRe: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine
electrofix wrote:the resistor feeds to a bridge rectifier and then to a capacitor which gives dc voltages of about over 300v. this is then fed into a switch mode power suppy. you will find a small 7 leg chip (sometimes 8 ) near the cap close to a small transformer. number normally begin tny but there is another one. look up TNY264 as a ref
if resistors have blow then replace chip and resistors and with a bit of luck it will burst into lifeDave
Thanks your email.The reason that I could not get continuity from the resistor to the rectifier bridge, is because I had the circuit board on the bench and not connected to the machine, when I was tracing for continuity. The resistor connection goes away to the underside of the edge connector ST 11 pin 1 and returns back on pin 3.
The surface mount IS5, the switch mode 7 leg chip, is covered with heavy lacquer and I can only read the last few digits xxxxx04GN, it doesn’t seem to be blown. But before I order a replacement part, is this the same as the TNY264?
Thank you for your help so far.4thrs
ParticipantRe: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine
qas wrote:That’s AUD from for a new board sourced in Australia.
Thanks4thrs
ParticipantRe: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine
qas wrote:Bosch don’t supply that level of information unfortunately (they probably don’t even have it themselves), they only show the module.
A replacement operating module is about $250 inc. postage.Thank you for your reply.
$250, is that Aus or US dollars? Local supplier or UK? Is it a new board or repaired one? Will it be a direct replacement?Thanks
4thrs
ParticipantRe: WAS24460 AU/04 FD9109400001- Bosh Washing Machine
electrofix wrote:if the resistor is on the power input to the board it will prob be about 100 ohms but there is a good chance the switch mode integrated circuit has also gone and the resistor act like a fuse
if it is a power supply fault it can be repaired if you know what your doing
Dave
Thank you for your prompt reply. I managed to save one charred/burnt colour band of the resistor and it looks like it was a BLACK band, so a 100 ohms seems about correct and as you said it act as a fuse.
I am handy with this sort of work, have repaired different boards before, but this is a double sided board and a bit hard to trace. What I discovered, is the connection of the active side on the rectifier bridge, is missing. The neutral connection side of the bridge is present. So somewhere between the other side of this burnt resistor and the bridge, lies my problem. Without a circuit diagram it is a bit hard to trace, but I haven’t given up yet.
Thanks again -
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