[97browng]

Hi All, just to update the Engineer came today and confirmed the issue was on the PCB (had to order a replacement). As per the excellent advice here he confirmed the power was going to board and to the door lock but nothing was coming out of the board. As the part is £100 plus I am not going to be much out of pocket by getting him to confirm.

A big thanks again for your help, really appreciated.

[97browng]

I don’t think so. The door switch looks like it is just a push button at the top if the oven so I definitely would not have been touching when cleaning. It also looks fine and does as expected when I push it.

[97browng]

Hopefully I am doing this correctly.

So the neutral is the yellow lead that goes into the black connector and the white connector on the left. I get continuity here and a reading of 0 on the lead and where it connects to the board. I also get continuity and 0 on a couple of places on the board .

For the live I dont get 0 anywhere on the board. I do get a reading of 200 on the purple wire on the right. The brown live goes into the thermal cut out and I do get continuity and 0 here. However I can see that the small black wire from the live goes into another board hidden under the top and there is also the display led display screen. From there I assume it comes back into this board from somewhere but unfortunately I cant get the top off without taking a load of components off.

I am guessing this suggests there is a problem with one of these boards but without taking it apart more I won’t be able to confirm which one is faulty.

The oven is only 18 month old and Hotpoint have said they will repair for a cost of £120 including all parts and labour. I was hoping I could replace myself for cheaper but by the looks of it the boards are quite expensive and by the time I paid for someone private to confirm which part is faulty it won’t be much difference.

I am thinking I am going to have to suck it up and pay Hotpoint. I must say I am really not impressed with their products. I paid a lot for a matching oven, oven microwave combo and Freezer and they have all had problems.

What are your thoughts? I am assuming that there is not much more we can do without taking the top off and I really don’t want to do that.

Thanks for all the help so far it has been really useful and I have learnt a lot, something I will be applying to some other projects I have.

EDIT – Just to confirm I know that the live coming is in Brown and the Neutral is Blue and Earth Yellow and Green, I am just using the colours above to show what connects from the power block inside the unit.

[97browng]

Thanks for the response. I am getting 46.5 ohms on there.

[97browng]

I can confirm that live and neutral is getting to the oven just tested and 230v going in.

I must admit my electric skills are minimum so not sure how I would go about testing the board. I have attached some pictures so if anyone can help then I would really appreciate.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v6U…ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mMi…ew?usp=sharing

PCB Sticker shows PCB 0382 WK: 936 Whirlpool

It also looks like on the top they have an thermal cut out (picture here – https://drive.google.com/file/d/1haY…ew?usp=sharing). When I test with continuity I get a reading of 0, not sure if that is what it is meant to be or not.

Any help appreciated. I have asked if someone can come around but they are not free until late next week and I could really do with the oven.

Thanks Again
Gary

[97browng]

It may have made a slight pop but looking at it I can’t actually see a break in the bulb.

Do you think it could just be the bulb and the oven will not work without one? I thought that was unlikely but i will get a spare today to test.

[Author]

Posts