[AmboGraeme]

Testing results –
There are 3 terminals on the pressure switch.
I am calling them 1, 2 and 3 from left to right as you look at the switch with the hose at the 6 o’clock position.
They are marked : 1 = 14, 2 = 11, 3 = 16

Test 1
Machine off and drained of water
1 & 2 = Open circuit
1 & 3 = Open circuit
2 & 3 = Open circuit

Test 2
Machine on and set to rinse cycle.
As it starts to fill and the water level raises
1 & 2 = Closed circuit
1 & 3 = Open circuit
2 & 3 = Open circuit

As it continues to fill and the water raises to above the half way point of the empty drum there is no change in the open/closed status as listed above. As the switch is not connected to the machine it then shows the following message on the screen: “No water, check supply”

Based on the above results I initially came to the conclusion that the first stage of the switch works and the machine knows that there is water entering the machine, but stage 2 isn’t working and the machine does not know to close the valve and stop the water coming in, so I was about to order a new pressure switch, BUT………

When I paused the cycle the water continued flowing, and when I pressed the power button the display went blank other than the lock cyle AND the water kept flowing!!!

Therefore, it is my belief that it is in fact a main board problem, unless I am missing/overlooking something?

It was a cheap machine from a friend of my parents, and we only got it due to our tumble drier frying itself and having no method of drying clothes after being washed.
I guess I’ll just go back to our original machine, which worked fine, and simply get hold of another tumble dryer.

Thanks for all the help and guidance, much appreciated.

[AmboGraeme]

Thanks for that Dave, the vid gives me a better idea of what to look for.
I’m not about to start blowing into the unit to test it as I know I can ruin it if I do, so I will be testing it with the water filling the machine and will post my results in a little while.
P.S. I know people always say “always unplug the machine” but I used to be an electrician, so I’m not going to fry myself!!

[AmboGraeme]

Thought I had commented with the picture but don’t seem to see it.
this represents what I currently have and it has 3 pins but a small connector block with 6 thin blue wires attached.
I have blown through the tube when disconnected from the switch and it bubbles in the drum, so I’m assuming it is not blocked or has leaks.
I want to test the switch before replacing it but I’m not 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} sure how to perform this test. I’m guessing to test for continuity with an empty drum and check for a change as it is filling but no idea which combinations of pins will give me a result.

[AmboGraeme]

If it is the main board I am done with it and not throwing any more money at it. I got the machine for 20 quid and didn’t mind the extra for the valves to see if it helps, but reluctant to spend much more.
So my previous question stands – have I identified the correct part to investigate, and how do I test it??

[AmboGraeme]

It does, yes.
BUT….If I put it on a drain cycle it starts pumping water out, then the water starts filling again so I’m leaning towards a main board fault…

[AmboGraeme]

Quick update. I have replaced the valves and water is now flowing in as it should, but i now have a further issue…
The water coming in will not stop. It kept filling to about 3/4 of the way up the door and then the drain pump operates. It drains some water out but it then keeps filling! I have to disconnect the valve nearest the back to stop the water coming in.
I’m guessing there is also an issue with the water level sensor, which is why it doesn’t cut out?
I notice there is a circular part at the front of the machine, inside the top on the right hand side. This has a small hose coming from the bottom, which goes down the side of the drum. Is this what lets the machine know there is enough water in it, and is there a way of testing it?
I guess that can be replaced too, but that is the limit of my spending before getting something else completely.

[AmboGraeme]

I have found the right one at a reasonable price so have gone ahead and ordered it. For the price I have paid, I’m not too bothered if it doesn’t rectify the fault.
What does concern me is the reason behind removing the manufatured socket on the faulty valve, and why the plug has been replaced with spade connectors.

I guess I will find out either way next week when the part arrives and I fit it – hopefully a new replacement machine isn’t on the horizon, as if the replacement part doesn’t work, I guess it is the control board, and its not worth replacing that…

[AmboGraeme]

A little bit of sleuthing has revealed the following –

When the water starts to flow initially it is from the middle solenoid – if I disconnect when open it stops, plug it back in and water flows.
If I swap the plug for the middle solenoid onto the front one (at the same point in the cycle above) it activates this solenoid.
When I test for voltage at the back solenoid it is showing 240v (as it does on the middle one, when active) but nothing seems to happen.

If I test for resistance on the front and middle solenoid it shows 3.9 (on 20k scale on my meter), but on the rear one it shows an open circuit.

This makes me believe that it is the rear solenoid at fault so I may well take the plunge and get the replacement part, but if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.

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