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Re: PCB type thermostat compatibility ?
I managed to find the correct part at another site, Charles Hyde & Son – £13 plus VAT.
Bit better than fifty ! It makes you wonder how some of these retailers come up with their prices !
Re: PCB type thermostat compatibility ?
FIFTY QUID!!? That’s extortionate!
Thanks for finding it though. I think I’ll try a cheap standard type in there instead. It’s got to be worth a try to save £45.Re: Drum spider ? Should I bother repairing or just replace
I see! Well, I suppose I could always drill up the drain hole and through the seal edge and then squirt lubricant up there to reach the shaft, or… I could just turn the radio up 🙂 You said you didn’t use the grease on Hotpoints that you’ve done? If it’s good enough for a professional to go unlubricated, it’s good enough for me.
Re: Drum spider ? Should I bother repairing or just replace
Well, I squirted some lubricant up the drain hole, but it’s still squeaking. Bug*er it…. I’m not stripping the thing again. Let it squeak.
Anyway… looking at the location of the drain hole, it’s surely going to be covered over by the edge of the front seal isn’t it ? What use is that !
Re: Hotpoint WM72 drum spider replace
Ah. 🙂
Well, I’m ten years behind the rest of the world down here!
Re: Hotpoint WM72 drum spider replace
If it’s any use, I’ve just done the job on my old WM52 and replaced the bearings at the same time. Getting the old bearings out was a nightmare and I knackered one of the new ones trying to put it in. The disassembly is easy enough, as is replacing the spider. If you are only going to do the spider, I’d say go for it. If you are also doing the bearings (why did your spider break… that’s the $64M question) then I’d think twice about it. However, if you’ve got a good toolkit (club hammer, socket set, penetrating oil (use 50:50 brake fluid and nail varnish remover – best releasing agent ever !), that sort of stuff, and a mechanical bent then give it a go.
My problem was that once I’d got the drum out, I could see the bearings were knackered and the front one in particular didn’t want to come out. I got it out eventually, but the bearing housing was also a bit kaput etc…. How much money are you potentially going to save by doing it yourself ?
Re: Drum spider ? Should I bother repairing or just replace
Surely 6 o’clock ? If it’s 12 o’clock, it would be above the bearings ?
When I checked the hole was clear, I poked a plastic straw down it and it went almost vertically down… so mine must be coming out under the tub.
If I can get to it easily I’ll squirt some stuff up there – even if it does nothing more than fool myself ! I have this vision of the bearing seal wearing out rapidly now without any lubrication at all, leading to another set of knackered bearings !! Panic !! 🙂
Re: Drum spider ? Should I bother repairing or just replace
Thanks. The second load squeaked far less than the first, so it’s heading in the right direction. Tell me, would you know where the drain hole behind the bearing seal exits? I know it goes down and comes out somewhere under the tub, as I have an idea… I’ve got some silicon spray lubricant that I could squirt up the drain hole with a nozzle extension… that would lubricate the seal from behind and I wouldn’t have to dismantle anything!
Re: Drum spider ? Should I bother repairing or just replace
High speed grease ??? Eh ? I haven’t put any grease on the collar… or anywhere for that matter ! I didn’t think grease would be a good thing inside a washing machine with clothes in !
In fact, I cleaned up the shaft and the collar with acetone before fitting to remove any crap that might have been on there.
Don’t tell me I needed grease ! Aaarrrggghhh !!!
As for your other suggestions, the bearings are fully seated – I measured them with a vernier caliper relative to the housing, and the door seal is good.Re: Drum spider ? Should I bother repairing or just replace
Right then ! Replacement bearing fitted, courtesy of a home-made bearing press (no hammering this time !). I’ve reassembled the machine and it’s currently running a load.
However….
It’s making a strange squeaking / creaking noise at low RPM – just like someone rubbing a wet finger on a glass. It disappears as it speeds up though. The only think I can possibly think of is the front bearing seal squeaking against the shaft. It’s bloody annoying, I know that !
When I fitted the drum into the tub (before fitting the pulley and nut), the drum spun nicely with no weird squeaks. Once I had fitted the pulley and tightened the nut, I noticed the drum now had a very slight resistance to turning and would ever so slightly rebound as it stopped. I also noticed the squeak at this point.
Has anyone got any suggestions please ? I’ll record it and stick it on here in a bit…
Thanks !
Re: Drum spider ? Should I bother repairing or just replace
Well, I need a swear box. I’ve just knackered the new front bearing.
I was trying to get it in using a 2mm pin punch and a club hammer. Don’t ask me what possessed me to try it like that… Either way, the punch slipped and dented the metal bearing seal to the point where the bearing catches (not to mention the seal doesn’t seal anymore).
What a goon.
Oh well, I’ll just have to order another.
What would you use to tap the bearing in (and don’t say ‘someone else’ !).
Re: Torque settings for Drum Spider / Support ?
The trouble is “as tight as I can” equals stripped threads – I guarantee it !
Torque settings for Drum Spider / Support ?
Hi,
I’m just fitting a new drum spider to my old Hotpoint WM52 and I have no idea how tight to do the three 13mm bolts up that clamp the spider to the drum. I’ve put threadlock compound on them and done them up pretty tight…. but I have a reputation for overtightening things !
Given that it’s a cast alloy spider, it’s going to be fairly brittle, so I don’t want to risk cracking it at the mounting points.
I have a torque wrench – but no idea what these bolts should be tightened to.
Anyone got any idea ? Also…. which way round do the little triangular plates with the nuts in go ? There’s a small lip on the outer edge of the plates… does that face towards the spider or the front of the drum ?
Ta !
Edit: I’ve taken them off again and cleaned the bolts up… I decided to wait for a reply here rather than press ahead with the bolts done up like the propellors on the QE2 !
Edit again !: Here’s the little bracket things that the bolts screw into. My logic says that the plates should be oriented as per the photo and the bolt would screw in from above. i.e. the edge of the bent lip would face the front of the drum. The captive nut is wider on the underside of the plate and slightly recessed. If it was the other way around, the plate itself would not make contact with the drum. Am I right ?
