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Bepi63wg
Participanttrying to desolder and re-solder the battery and then recharging it on the charging base, after a few minutes it started working again. To date, after three months it still works, mysteries
Bepi63wg
ParticipantHi, I replaced the triac and the supply voltage has become 220v. Nevertheless except for first test cycle the error came out again. Then I measured the voltage coming out from the switch which should be 220v when closed and zero when open. With my surprise the voltage was around 180v when open. Then I checked again the microswitch (a CHERRY CB1). The resistance was zero when close but not infinite when open. My error was to measure the first time by a 2M ohm full scale instrument instead using a 20M ohm full scale I detected a 19M ohm resistance. In consequence the triac was always conducting. I disassembled the switch clean the casing, warmed up it and the resistance became infinite. I checked it on the machine and it was fine, but the next day the problem with the switch came back. At this point I replaced the flow controller (price 35 EUR – 30 GBP) and this solved the issue. Then the source of the problem was the cherry CB1 microswitch.
Bepi63wg
Participantthank you so much
Bepi63wg
ParticipantYes, the board’s cost is 160€ (130 GBP) then is not worth to replace on a six year old machine. I found a french site (activating the automatic translation) with a similar voltage issue (60v instead 220v) where the TRIAC 102H6D ( NXP brand) was out of order. Replacing it the machine started working again. This is the link
https://bricolage.linternaute.com/forum/affich-121207797-machine-a-laver-sechante-electrolux-e10
now I try to search the TRIAC or equivalent
Bepi63wg
ParticipantI checked the flow regulator mounted on the water sump. I disconnected cable from board and powered by 220v the motor rotation was regular as well as the switch activation and deactivation (measuring the voltage on the switch pin). Then I guess the flow regulator is ok. I removed the board to see if there was visible damages (overheating, burns..) but from this side it’s all right. The TRIAC 102H6D ( NXP) checked by tester seems ok (no short circuit or other) as well as the diode US1M6SY which receive the signal from swich on flowmeter. Then I don’t know what else to do.
Bepi63wg
ParticipantYes there is. The synchronous motor is a 50SM16 220v – 50/60Hz – 3.5W. Looking at the scheme the supply come from a TRIAC. Maybe the designers reduced the voltage to decrease the motor speed . I guess that TRIAC either it works or it doesn’t since there is voltage I presume it’s ok. Is there a way to know the right output voltage from the board because on the scheme is not shown.
Bepi63wg
ParticipantI checked the continuity of the three cables from plug to the card and it’s ok. Then I disconnect the plug from and when the machine is running measured the voltage that is 60v. Is this voltage right? Furthermore I extract the motor and switch trying to press and depress the switch. The motor rotates for a quarter turn then stops for a while and does another quarter turn. It is possibile to do this for a short time ’cause water loss from the flow regulator without the motor. Is it worth replacing the flux regulator since the voltage is 60 volt or is it a board problem?
thank for replyBepi63wg
ParticipantOk I’ll check if voltage reaches the motor. The doubt is only on which pin to misure. I belive that “desired position of the flowmeter ” mentioned in description error is when switch is closed then there must be 220v between pin 1 and 2. I presume that 220v on pin 1 is the signal for the board to stop the rotation of the motor.
Bepi63wg
ParticipantHi
I checked the flow control extracting the synchronous motor and the microswitch. Both run , I applied 220v to the motor to check rotation and it’s ok, checked switch on-off by the tester. Even the mechanism works properly. Nevertheless the issue remain, the machine complete the cycle without heat water. The resistance is ok but no voltage arrive on the cable. Are the other suggestions ?I found this description of the error:
iD0.
9.2.13 “iE0” code family: Flowmeter position
– The alarm is stored and displayed only in service mode; there is a new control for each new phase.
– The alarm is signalled if the desired position of the flowmeter is not reached after 120 sec; the
heating element is deactivated.
– If the signal from the flowmeter does not change after 15 sec, the software suspends the positioning
for 2 sec and resumes after another max 120 sec.Bepi63wg
ParticipantThanks for your detailed reply , do you think I have to replace the unit or try to dismantle to clean or check if something is wrong inside ?
Bepi63wg
ParticipantFinally I found the time to face the issue. I dismantled the old coil and replace it with beko spare part 372205505 not 372205506 because the shop had ony that available. In line with Dave’s suggestion I used the old metal case ’cause it fit better. Then I started the two hours program and drying worked perfectly. What was wrong in the old coil ? at room temperature the resistance was 220 ohm but as the temperature increase the resistance became very high (over 1 M ohm) then not enough voltage signal reaches the electronic board. The new coil resistance is 90 ohm and the induced voltage is around 6 v.
Thank you very much indeed to Dave and to the forum to drove me towards the solutionBepi63wg
ParticipantThanks Dave
My dubt is about size ’cause the Beko coil has 31/21mm diameter and 12mm thickness. Then I’ll try to dismantle and misuring the size. Are there other parameters to take in account ? -
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