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This thread has gone dead, so I don’t think anyone is likely to respond now, but I thought I’d give an update.
Had an engineer out today. The issue appears to be due to a broken wire in the door itself. It seems that the bundle that crosses at the hinge has failed due to constant movement at some stage, and the only solution is a replacement door, because it’s a sealed unit and the wiring is inaccessible.
I did find another thread online describing the exact same issue with a different model LG fridge freezer from 2019. Their repair also required a door replacement.
So, if anyone is reading this, and sees a similar issue in the future, then they might find this info helpful.
OK, things have progressed…
I was able to isolate the first (single) valve and demonstrated that it worked so ruled that out despite the multimeter testing suggesting it was bad.
The second (double) valve was harder to isolate but when I did, I wasn’t able to get water to flow so, on that basis, despite the healthy multimeter readings, I concluded that was the problem part. The replacement arrived today.
On fitting, though, the issue remained. By chance, I found though, if I depressed the dispenser button and opened the door then for a couple of seconds water flowed when the door was slightly ajar.
So, I started to look at the magnetic door sensor.
When I first started to play around with it, with a magnet, I found that in certain magnet positions I could get the dispenser to work normally, but in its housing it was never in the correct position for water to flow. As a temporary fix, I taped a magnet to it and found that the dispenser worked, though the door alarm and light stopped working (because the sensor reported the door closed). Acceptable compromise, I thought. So, I unplugged the fridge, replaced the wiring with the attached magnet back in the housing and plugged back in, only to find the dispenser stopped working again after the power cycle.
A bit more testing, and I’ve found that now the dispenser works when the door is physically open, but the sensor reports the door is closed (magnet nearby). So, it’s as though the signal from the sensor has reversed. If I put the sensor back in its housing (so it’s near a magnet when the door is closed) then the dispenser doesn’t work, apart from a few seconds when the door is first opened, which is what I witnessed earlier. The light and alarm work normally though – so when the sensor is near a magnet the light and alarm are off, and vice versa.
So, the question is – is this a magnetic door sensor problem or is it more likely that the controller that responds to the sensor is knackered? The sensor isn’t expensive, but as I’ve already shelled out for a new valve I don’t really want to waste any more cash.
Thanks, I’m going to see if I can bypass each valve in turn to see if I can isolate their activity. Seems like it might be the easiest way to do this in the end.
I got around 1500 ohms.
Do you think this is the more likely valve to have gone? If so what’s the reasoning? Or, do I just need to replace both valves?
Found it!
Managed to find an explode view of the fridge. It’s behind an access panel in the door.
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I get a closed circuit across the purple and across the white which suggests the solenoid coils are intact, yes?OK, thanks. Maybe someone who does do fridges will post, but I’ll also contact LG after the weekend and see if they can help.
Back to my original post though – if I’m getting an open circuit across those 2 cables that should signify that the coil is broken in the solenoid shouldn’t it?
electrofix wrote:if things are frozen it will need a total defrost
Logically, I can’t see how it could be frozen The water pipe runs externally up the back of the fridge and then passes into the door at the top hinge. It then runs through the door to the ice and water dispenser.
In this model the ice and water dispenser are housed in the fridge section, not the freezer section. The water pipe never goes near the freezer. It’s a fridge at the top, freezer at the bottom, not side by side design.
Thanks. What part number is that? That is definitely not present on my machine externally. So it must be buried in the door somewhere.
electrofix wrote:there will be seperate valve for each one.
You would think so, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. There is a single outflow from that valve which runs externally from the base to the top of the fridge where it turns internally as the only water pipe into the fridge. So unless there is another inline valve buried somewhere at the top of the fridge, then there is only one valve.
If it’s a frozen pipe, how do I resolve that? Unplug the fridge for a while??
