[bob12241]

The board you mention, may be the inverter module for the drive motor, this is located on the left hand side (when viewed from rear) with multiple wires going in and going out to the motor. It is also near the large capacitors you mention (do not touch unless unplugged for 24hrs). This is not the board, it is on the opposite side inside a plastic enclosure, which is screwed to the rear.. The mention also of the door lock clicking is not typical of the diode D7 failing, although on mine I did have very faint lights illuminating on the front panel. The engineers quote is dear for the boards (last time I checked about 15 months ago) , and it is possible for 1 board to fail and take out the other board, he could also be covering all possibilities. Engineer quotes 5 hours as there is a minimum time he can book and the £75 you pay is for that length of time, most are 3 hours though.
Regards Rob

Ps just did price check, main pcb £67.11 display pcb £70.19 vat inclusive, plus postage

[bob12241]

Muttontop wrote:Thanks Dave, the problem I’ve got is that my Daughter lives in London (Ealing) and I live near Worcester so it’s not so simple to visit and diagnose and then obtain the part as most electronic shops are now on line only (Maplins, etc), so even if it is only the diode then that in itself would pose a problem, that’s why I asked if they were all the same so that I could order on line before I went. If it is a main board failure that would definetly require replacement and another visit once it arrives. I don’t suppose you know of anyone reliable (and preferably reasonably priced!!!) in the area that my Daughter could contact to help her diagnose the problem? Thanks for your help.
Steve

Hi, just a bit of info, most engineers do not work to component level. Therefore they normally just change the board. Assuming he wont be carrying a spare you might find a total bill of £75 first visit £75 for the board (at last look) and a further £75 for the second visit. When you weigh the cost of this against a diode costing less than £3 (from ebay) I know which way I would rather go. The D7 diode is the same for all models mentioned here, do not assume it is the same for all models as I cannot vouch for that. If your daughter knows someone with diy expertise they could access the board and photograph it for your benefit, or even do the job. Detailed instructions are available on a similar posting on another website, I won’t mention that here. Personally I would chance the £3 and then go to your daughters.

[bob12241]

I originated this solution on an alternative website back in march 2019, since then other people have contributed to make the job as easy as possible, the problem affects a quite a few models and as yet I am not sure of the extent.. Yes you can put a 2A diode in, I used a STPS2h100, and its still working 2 years later. You cannot test D7 100{e5d1b7155a01ef1f3b9c9968eaba33524ee81600d00d4be2b4d93ac2e58cec2d} accurately as D6 affects the readings, If you cannot read the diode id then de-solder 1 leg and lift it. Then you can see the markings, it is also the easiest way to check this diode. To date this has fixed more than 45 machines and that is only those I know of. I have also been in touch with Beko and informed them of the problem. Their response was “congratulations on a quick and economical fix”. I wont post the website address, but please give credit where due.

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