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BrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Replace Dryer Belt on AEG LT5500
I think I found it here…
http://partsforhome.securearea.eu/Webwinkel-Product-3629429/AEG-microschakelaar.html
… I just need to learn dutch now!
Regards
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Replace Dryer Belt on AEG LT5500
Thanks for finding the part#.
I did manage to bodge it temporarily and probably with some careful bending I could make it even better.
At least the Tumble Dryer is back in action, temporarily at least.
Thanks
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Replace Dryer Belt on AEG LT5500
The label says
Lavatherm 5500 Micro
E 916 014 002
F 037/025741Looks like I must have bent the microswitch/lever assembly by not noticing it as I disassembled the drum; it must have been crushed in the process.
Although I managed to get it to fit I think I will replace it if I can find the part.
Thanks
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
Have been away for a few days and left the fridge/freezer to defrost completely during that period…
.. returned and measured the Resistances of both thermistors in the fridge compartment… Wet Wall (RED) and Fridge Air (GREEN). Both of these measure around 5k Ohms at 20C and if warmed the resistance decreases or cooled the resistance increases so I conclude they are fine.
Anyway.. turned it back on and the temperatures seem a bit more sensible anyway so I’ll monitor for a while but perhaps the defrost fixed it.
Very Strange.
Regards
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Replace Dryer Belt on AEG LT5500
I think I worked it out… the microswitch should be near vertical and the lever fits in the hole within the microswitch.
I bodged it for now but really need to replace the microswitch/lever assembly….
.. does anyone have a schematic and a part# for the water reservoir microswitch/lever assembly?
TIA,
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Replace Dryer Belt on AEG LT5500
The Microswitch… and tab of drawer in background….
Lever…
BrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Replace Dryer Belt on AEG LT5500
It was going so well..
I took the back off and eventually got the belt around the drum and refitted all the rear seals etc. I then disassembled the front fan (slightly splitting the spindle but it seems to hold together) and threaded the belt around the spindle and pulley and reassembled.
My only outstanding issue is the microswitch for the water drawer. The lever has become detached from the microswitch and I can’t for the life of me work out which way it is meant to go!
🙁
BrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
Actually, I’ve decided it could be either… (remembering my Eliwell controller manual… the fan is controlled by the evaporator sensor, it runs until the evaporator reaches FSt).
So…IF similar logic applies to the Liebherr logic in CNes3866 the interior fan would be controlled by the evaporator sensor rather than the air sensor…
…the fault could be the evaporator sensor as suggested earlier…
I’ll change Part 260 after my defrost and see if it makes a difference; if not, i’ll swap it for the 250!
Thanks,
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
Following the logic through… there are three thermistors in this appliance… 250, 260 and 270 on the diagram.
250 is the Fridge Air Temperature sensor, 260 is the Fridge Evaporator sensor and 270 is the Freezer Evaporator sensor.
Now… in the fridge compartment… if I measure using two digital probes…
… the Wet-Wall/Evaporator temperature, near 260, it reads -5.2C
… the air temperature, near the location of 250, it reads +7.7C
Under these conditions, in my fridge, the compressor is not running and the fridge interior fan is not running.
Is it safe to conclude that if the air temperature (+7.7) is well above set point (+4.0) then I would expect the fan to be running (and possibly the compressor too), and given that I know both the compressor and the fan are in good order but not currently running I can conclude that it is either a controller fault (unlikely according to previous posts) or that the air sensor (item 250 in diagram) is faulty; i.e. 250 sensor is measuring T in such a way that controller believes SetPoint is already reached?
i.e. 250 Sensor mis-Calibration/non-Linear behaviour?
Thanks
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
>>> The fridge evaporator sensor on a liebherr can sometimes fail due to water leaking into the sensor.
Interesting. Is the evaporator sensor labelled 260 on the previous diagram? or are there two sensors… one in the interior and one on the evaporator?
Thanks in advance,
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
>>> Highly doubtful on the refrigerant.
Thanks. That is reassuring.
Regards
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
Thanks for the info re: ‘Wet Wall’.
I will check out the thermistor when I defrost the whole thing sometime over the next few weeks; hopefully it is that simple.
My only remaining worry is that since the lower section is cold (sub-zero at the drainage channel) but the upper part is warm this suggests that the bottom of the wet-wall evaporator is cold but the top is not.. I imagine that would be a refrigerant issue.
Regards
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
I assumed that it was ducted… i.e. cold air would be allowed to circulate from the freezer compartment into the fridge to regulate temperature.
Please can you point me to a definition of “wet wall”.
… and excuse the ignorance.
Or does the fridge have its own evaporator?
Thanks in advance
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
Thanks. I’m guessing a blockage or a problem with the flap that controls air flow between the compartments.
Will eat the contents and then defrost!
Thanks
BfWBrianFWombat
ParticipantRe: Liebherr 7082 defrost cycle drainage issue
K
Thanks alot. That diagram will really help.
I left two digital thermometers in the fridge and just returned to them. The top reads 11C and the bottom reads -0.7C. I guess the previous readings were distorted due to the breakfast door opening.
The -0.7C at the bottom possibly explains the freezing occurring in the drainage channel.
As you pointed out there are many potential causes… I was initially thinking about a fan failure… but following your diagram I opening the freezer section took out the drawer and saw the lower fan spin down and hear it spin up when the door was closed so that appears OK.
We normally do not have the ‘Ventilation’ feature enabled… I guess it is not on by default, but if I do press that button, close the door and then open the door I see the top fan blades spin down. So both fans seem OK.
I do not quite understand the air flow in this fridge. Where does cold air from the freezer enter/exit the fridge?
Thanks in advance
BfW -
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