[bronxboy]

Re: BOSCH CLASSIXX FRIDGE FREEZER – TEMPERATURE LIGHTS FLASH

Just like to say a MASSIVE THANK YOU to SAMURI (Bob) for helping me out via PM – turns out it was a fault in the PCB – a faulty capacitor.

Instead of having to pay Bosch stupid money for a replacement PCB, I found a place the repairs PCB – in and out in 20 minutes, £20 repair.

Still need to wait and see that the fridge is working under normal conditions – but so far up and running 1 1/2 hours with no issues.

GREAT FORUM !!!!!!!!!!

[bronxboy]

Re: BOSCH CLASSIXX FRIDGE FREEZER – TEMPERATURE LIGHTS FLASH

Good Morning – my name is Daniel, and I am new to your forum. I came across this thread from last year doing a google search, which describes exactly what is happening with my Bosch Refrigerator/Freezer KSU40600GB/02 – FD8107 – 000362.

It is 276 litre refrigerator and 105 litre freezer – and is 70 cm wide. Due to logistics of our kitchen and our eating habits, this size and style of unit (much larger fridge than freezer) really suits our needs. Seems quite difficult now to find exact replacement, at a reasonable cost. So while I have owned the fridge from new since June 2002, and 13 years service is not all that bad these days, I really would like to keep it going, if possible.

For the past 5 years, we have had the following issue: After doing a full defrost (36-48 hrs), the fridge would struggle a bit to turn on (doing the on/off on/off flashing lights described in this thread), but eventually turn on and get to normal operating temp.

It would be OK for around 6 months – when one of two things (or both) would happen:

The on/off on/off flashing lights AND/OR water coming into the fridge. I would be able to absorb the water with a couple of sponges, and a couple times a day squeeze out the sponges.

The “water issue” would last say 2-3 weeks, during which the fridge would otherwise work perfectly and all food remained cold/frozen. After 2-3 weeks, we would have the on/off on/off lights flashing issue, when we knew we would need to do a 36 hr defrost.

I was always of the belief that there was a “block of ice” somewhere – and seems from what I read here that seems to be the case.

I would do a full defrost – and again, for 6 months we would be good to go.

I did a full defrost mid July – but now only 2 months later – I am getting the on/off on/off flashing lights. NO WATER is coming into the fridge. I can get the fridge to eventually work with the doors shut – and it seems to work overnight, but as soon as we open door in the morning, the whole on/off on/off thing starts again.

I had an engineer come out last week – he removed the top panel where the temperature indicators and on/off button is – hooked up a meter – and advised it was the PCU (Power Control Unit ???) which would cost around £150.

I have just turned off the fridge and will do a full full full defrost for 72 hours minimum – I am well aware of the container over the compressor where water will collect (I am always amazed that after 24 hours hardly any water is there – but then the next 12 hours sees ALOT of water).

I also am aware of the small tube that goes into the container – which in the past i have removed and cleaned out if needed.

However, I have never had water come into the fridge while doing the full defrost (only when it is on for 6 months after the previous defrost)

Apologies for the long description, but trying to give background before asking my questions:

1 – Could it really be the PCU that is causing the fridge to have these issues, every 6 months?

My “gut feel” is that – if it is POWER UNIT, the fridge would either work or not work.

Could the ice build up potentially give a “false PCU reading”?? My concern is that I pay to have the PCU replaced, and 2,3, or 6 months later, I get the same issues.

2 – Is there a sensor or some sort of heater that should be melting, what I am assuming is an ice build up (not visible in the freezer by the way).

I am hoping by giving the fridge a full full full 72 hours defrost this may indeed help matters.

3 – After the engineer did his tests, and had turned the fridge off – he in fact also refitted the door, as a bearing had worn – the fridge was struggling to stay on. He carefully (with a protective glove) removed the 2 refrigerator bulbs – waited a moment – and put them back in – and viola, the fridge stayed on.
He said it was “a little trick”.

Just curious, why does this seem to work? I should say it only worked for a weekend. When I have tried it – no luck.

I will of course update in 72 hours after I have done the FULL FULL FULL defrost – but any initial comments in the mean time (or anything else I can do in the mean time) very much appreciated.

many thanks

[Author]

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